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engineer
06-21-2008, 12:17 PM
I may not be a total newb but I can't find a thread for robonova, here do I have to start one?

Droid Works
06-23-2008, 04:08 PM
I think so, we need more robonova posts.

MYKL
06-23-2008, 04:16 PM
Well met engineer,

There are a few of us dabbling with this platform. You may have to search a bit to catch whats been posted. The more posted on these the better.

I am happy with my RN-1 so far.

It is in a growth phase at the moment. I hope to make it more functional. I am designing brackets to allow 32-34 DOF while running two of the Hitec boards, one for the legs/lower extremities and one for upper body and plugins.

Do you have an RN-1 unit?

^_^

engineer
06-23-2008, 07:15 PM
Yes, MYKL I have one,it's called RN-! using two gyros, an acellerometer, sparkfun's bluetooth, PEV's bioblue in my laptop and programmed moves from a lot of people. RN-! has won two gold medals in wrestling at Robogames,which suprised me because I entered to meet other users, and espcially Bauermech and Tohm. I met a lot of other people, learned a bunch, too. If some more people want I'll put some of the Mod's up here,But, even 'though there at www.Robosavvy.com already, new users come up against the blinking blue LED, the fact that RN-1"s need Zeroing, and a group of misdirections in the manual.

Adrenalynn
06-24-2008, 12:22 AM
Hi Engineer,

Please do share! For every respondant, there's always a handful of shy lurkers. :)

In fact, I believe that's a big chunk of the point to the tutorials section. How about some tutorials?

Congrats on your outstanding performances!

Alex
06-24-2008, 10:19 AM
Absolutely!

I know for a fact there are quite a few Robonova owners in the TRC, so I'm sure once you start posting, there will be quite a bit of conversation stirred up.

Alex
06-25-2008, 10:30 AM
Thread name changed to The Ultimate Robonova Thread, so that everyone who has a Robonova has a thread to start in:D

asbrandsson
06-25-2008, 11:39 PM
Hello,

It is no secret that I like the robonova plateform. I just have to put more time into making it more humanoid.

Asbrandsson

Alex
06-27-2008, 10:02 AM
So.... what sort of mods has everyone done to the Robonova? Pictures, Videos, anything! I wanna see what everyone has done, even if you've mentioned it before in other threads.

This year at iHobby, I'm wondering what bot the TR team should enter in Chibotica, so I want to steal, er.. um... "borrow" your ideas/mods, haha:D Also, if anyone has some tutorials they'd like to create, by all means, do so (http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/forumdisplay.php?f=118)!

Adrenalynn
06-27-2008, 12:41 PM
I was the official webcast provider for iHobby in Chicago a few years ago. How long you guys been going to it?

Alex
06-27-2008, 01:37 PM
last year was our very first year. Was there any robotics stuff there when you were hosting the webcast?

Adrenalynn
06-27-2008, 02:11 PM
Tamaya had a huge presence with basically everything they make. Outside of that I didn't see much.

Adrenalynn
06-27-2008, 02:25 PM
Wow. How time flies.

We webcast it in 2004. I was just poking around on my archive drives to see if I still had any assets from the show...

engineer
06-28-2008, 05:42 AM
Ok you guys, the first thing you need to do is check out the tutorial at robosavvy for initial construction. Because of inaccuracies in the build manual, RN-1 will do some strange stuff when first powered up, RN-! backflipped and kicked my monitor:mad:, I did a complete teardown mailed RN-! to tony ohm's shop and he sent RN-! back with a clean bill of health:p, then I found Robosavvy after rebuilding RN-! and had to do another teardown, but not total. Just the legs to get the servos straight:D.
The first thing that confuses users is the blinking blue LED, commenting the programming is easy but the voltage monitoring circuit is easy too. It only takes two 50Kohm resistors, two plug bodies, Pins, and some wire to build.
As I get further into this thread, You'll need to be able to solder very small joints, on the traces components and connectors. Since we'll be writing about modding RN-1's with gyros, accellerometers, bluetooth, a head servo, grippers, and cleaning up the wires inside the armour,so this stuff fits 'cause theres not a whole lot of room inside and it's way better covered than out where your opponent can grab or hook it, and take your robot down:(. Thank you alex for permission to link to robosavvy.com,there a users on this community who I hope will contribute thier upgrades so that we all can use them too. I'm still working on multi colored led eyes I built them but haven't figured out what level will turn them on without burning out.:eek:

Adrenalynn
06-28-2008, 01:38 PM
I'm still working on multi colored led eyes I built them but haven't figured out what level will turn them on without burning out.:eek:

Do you know how to calculate your pull-up resistors? If so - I won't bore you with it.

engineer
07-01-2008, 02:01 PM
the post on robosavvy and the card with the LED's had two different R values depending on V applied I used both and when I coded the on values into RN-! niether set worked. Now I have to get back to find out the robobasick coding and relearn what I was trying to do :eek:

dcalkins
07-01-2008, 03:35 PM
the post on robosavvy and the card with the LED's had two different R values depending on V applied I used both and when I coded the on values into RN-! niether set worked. Now I have to get back to find out the robobasick coding and relearn what I was trying to do :eek:

Anything in the 220-1000 ohm range will work.

engineer
07-03-2008, 11:28 PM
Not the pullup resistors, the pwm 0, pwm 1, pwm 2 commands that light the LED's though with tri colored LED's you only need two of them because 0 would be green 1 = blue and 0 + 1 would be red. when I added the disco_eyes programming loop I didn't get any reaction from the added LED's :genmad:

engineer
07-03-2008, 11:30 PM
OH and adrenalyn go ahead and bore me this thread is for everyone.

Alex
07-07-2008, 12:01 PM
OH and adrenalyn go ahead and bore me this thread is for everyone.

4sure! Adren - I'm sure many would appreciate some info on calculating pull-up resistors.

Adrenalynn
07-07-2008, 12:59 PM
Ok - it's basically a pretty simple application of Ohms Law.

If you look at the datasheet on an LED you should see the "Forward Voltage Drop" or commonly shown as V(f) or Vf. We should also observe a "max current".

Let's say we have an LED that has a Vf of 1.7v and a max current of 20mA that we want to run from a 5v supply: ((5v-1.7Vf)/20)*1000[gets us to milliamps instead of amps] = 165 Ohms

So if we wanted to run that same LED from 9v, we'd have ((9-1.7)/20)*1000 = 365 Ohms.

In practice, you probably won't have odd resistors laying around. We can go larger, it just means the LED won't be as bright. The first handful of junk resistors I grabbed out of the bin over my lab desk whilst writing this included a 180 Ohm, and a 390 Ohm. Problem solved. ;)

Sometimes we won't have the luxury of a datasheet when it comes to unknown junk LEDs. The values I listed are pretty typical for most full-case sized LEDs (not necessarily SMD), but I tend to err on the side of conservative. In that same example above, I'd figure ((9-2)/15)*1000 = 467 Ohm, and I have a boatload of 470 Ohm resistors here. :) [2v forward drop and 15mA of max current]

If you have to wing it, start conservative and if the LED is too dim for you, increase your confidence until you get where you need to be. Note if you're running it from a power supply your worst-case is losing the LED, no big deal. If you're running from a microcontroller and you over-draw the output pin on the controller you are likely to blow that pin. Not the end of the world on something like an ATMEGA256 (it has more pins... ;)), but on something like an ATTINY, it probably means unsoldering the chip, throwing it away, and starting again... If you're worried about your processor, don't push the current ratings - that's the general rule-of-thumb around my lab.

Does that help?

engineer
07-09-2008, 01:46 AM
Adren, that's one part of the solution to lighting LED's the other is the port assignments, and commands to operate, energize them. RN-1's have two pwm ports, #46,&#47, that can apply +5v. to led pull up resistors and light them up, the problem is programming in robobasick

' inserting pwm 0, 15' should have given pwm 0 port a command to send 15% signal to port 46
' pwm 1, 25' should have lit the green leg of the LED
' pwm 0,1, 100 should send +5v. to both ports and turn the LED red
I couldn't get this working as an addition to the fight, walk,& tumbling routines.

Sigma X
06-14-2009, 08:49 PM
Hi gang I know this thread havn't been used in a while but somthing has been bugging me about the robonova
for starters MR-C300E I know it has 32 ports for servos and extra for i/o devices but the question comes like this
can this controller work with a "serial" parallax servo controller 16 servo's I think baud rate from 2400 to 38k4 Baud
I believe it can but I'd feel btter asking

Quantum
06-14-2009, 09:14 PM
Yea it would work but you dont really want to use that controller. The servos are just like any other Hitec except for the way they can be mounted.

The problem with the parallax controller is that you can't control more than one servo at a time. You need to allow one servo to move then the next and so one. So multiple servos moving at the same time is impossible. But it would work with the right program.

Sigma X
06-15-2009, 10:59 AM
it was stated in the paralax web site that all servos can be controlled at once I may have mis read though but i'll give it a shot, also is there another type of serial servo controller that I can use?

lnxfergy
06-15-2009, 11:09 AM
Um, why would you use a separate serial servo controller if it can already control 32? Even with high-end hobby servos, I can't think of many configurations that use >32 servos and can still actually move....

-Fergs

Sigma X
06-15-2009, 12:12 PM
it's mainly for an rc tank i'm working on and I want to see how many guns I can put on it

engineer
06-15-2009, 12:21 PM
Hi, I'm just finished with robogames 2009, and to get this thread back on track. I found out that to use pwm outputs you need to enter FPWM 0,1,254 .this raises the pwm 0 and pwm 1 outputs to +5v then the diodes shine red. I'm using tricolored led's and a 470 ohm resistor, iBot helped a great deal and suggested I put in a 390 ohm res. in the green or pwm 0 connection and move the 470 ohm res to the pwm 1, red + , leaving the ground a straight connection.
That is what the games are really about meeting other users and sharing ideas and getting them to work. We also were working on Boomers laser tag but didn't find the off trigger yet. I'm sure Mike's still looking for the answer. I'm going to try and post the Pic's I took with my phone. I also finally met adrynalinn, I talked with Alex and a whole bunch of the guy's. I didn't medal this year but sparred a bunch, got pawned & served and didn't fry, strip or lose any screws gears or servos.

engineer
06-15-2009, 12:57 PM
I'm also working on the battery for RN-! liquidrc.com sells 2/3A 1800mah battery kits & Team Orion battery bones thin enough to fit. Tohm is sending me some of the RN-1's connectors. with a little soldering, taping & shrink wrap, You can extend RN's run time and tourque. Like this yeah!!! the 1st pic is the finished packs.2cd the parts. 3rd the polarity stack so the + & - leads come out in the center to minimize wire chafing. they were out of stock for 1800 so I ordered 1500's to get ready for robogames 2009. I was demo'ing RN-! in the pits and found out that the connector I used doesn't fit all RN-1's.These packs are for 1/18 scale racers and can be fast charged instead of RN's overnight 100ma. They are nimh's, weigh the same as RN's and with care should work out.I've finally gotten the digikey part numbers for the connectors:A30499-ND (sockets @ .31 ([email protected]) ea.) A30501-ND (housing @ .27 ([email protected] .27) ea) A30511 (header connector for board or charger @ .14 ea. These are available at digikey.com. these nimh packs are usually used in !?18 race cars or trucks they can be fast charged at 1.5 a or 2x cap I have since found these sub c batteries with up to 2000 mah. use a good iron to solder them they don't like a lot of heat the 1600's I found at liquidrc.com hold a charge twice as long as the stock 1000's. Good luck I'll see you at the games

engineer
06-15-2009, 01:12 PM
Alex Why did my edit get eaten? duh thnx

Adrenalynn
06-15-2009, 01:39 PM
You asked Alex - but I suspect he's traveling (seeing as how the chat server is dead again)

I see three edits: Original at 9:57, 10:26, 10:30. Comparing the 10:30 edit to the posted version, they match. Sure you didn't press the wrong button somewheres? ;)

engineer
06-15-2009, 01:51 PM
yeah, thats what the duh was about.

Adrenalynn
06-15-2009, 02:05 PM
Aha, gotcha. Didn't get that.

Nice to meet you (if only super-briefly) yesterday! Thanks for taking the time to hunt me down. :)

engineer
06-15-2009, 03:13 PM
you must have seen one of my robogames matchs to have come up with the right reason so fast.thnx

engineer
06-15-2009, 03:15 PM
yay! I? got an avatar,cool