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jes1510
01-01-2009, 07:45 PM
Per a couple of requests I disassembled my new wifi cam and took some pics of the process. There are also measurements of each important piece in each pic.

The camera was purchased from Amazon.com here:
Amazon.com: TRENDnet Wireless Internet Camera Server (TV-IP110W): Electronics


[edit] Thanks to their great support, the latest version of Roborealm supports this camera out of he box.

The camera is held together by two small phillips screws on the back top of the housing. The bottom of the housing has clips that keeps the bottom together.

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Removing the front of the chassis will reveal 3 boards. The front board is the camera on a connector that connects to a carrier board. The wireless card is in a socket on the back of the carrier board. The carrier board has a small breakout board on the bottom that has the power and ethernet connectors. There is also a UTC117 regulator on the small breakout board. The datasheet for the regulator can be found here:
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheets2/98/98580_1.pdf

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This is the breakout board. The electronics are on the other side.

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Finally here is the camera completely disassembled

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Here are the weights without the housing: (Weights taken with a Centech 93543 digital scale.)
Power/Connector board: 20.3 grams
wifi card + camera + carrier board : 64.3 grams
Camer only: 17.7 grams
Wifi card + carrier card : 46.6 grams
complete camera: 84.7 grams

Hopefully this is helpful to someone!

[mod edit: Thumbnailed by popular request. Click once for intermediate sized pic, twice for gargantuan pic. ;) -Adrenalynn]

DresnerRobotics
01-01-2009, 08:20 PM
Great pictures! Thanks!

It looks like the camera board could be mounted separately via a cable of some sorts? You know what type of pins its using (spacing)?

jes1510
01-01-2009, 08:39 PM
The camera connectors are on approximately 0.05" centers. It uses 2 dual row headers, 0ne is 24 pins, the other is 20 pins.

The power/connector board uses one dual row header on 0.1" centers. It has 24 pins. It looks like the easiest thing to do would be to put the power board on a cable and leave the camera on the carrier board.

gdubb2
01-01-2009, 09:23 PM
Probably the same spacing as on our Airlinks. They are either 1.25 or 1.27 mm. It's a challange to find connectors with the proper number of pins in stock. The 24 pin connectors might be a problem, but the 20 are easy with Digikey. Our Airlinks are 26 pins. I ended up ordering some 30's 'cause thats all that was available at the moment. We'll see how they fit in a day or two.

Gary

ooops
01-01-2009, 09:50 PM
Jes, great job on pics and description +rep:)

Zenta
01-23-2009, 01:17 PM
Thanks for sharing your findings Jes!
Good information to know. I'm just wondering how to make it look good on a hexapod though..

The pictures are great but I would recommend a bit smaller size, had to use horisontal scroll on my old laptop.

Total weight of about 85 gram wasn't bad at all.

-Zenta

jes1510
03-03-2009, 04:50 PM
Video Latency test:
YouTube - 20081228194723

The cam looks a bit darker than it really is here. the angle I'm shooting versus added to the CFL light in my office makes for a pretty drab image.

sthmck
03-24-2009, 04:21 PM
I was wondering. I just searched for this camera on Amazon and there were two cameras that came up. One of them said TRENDnet Wireless Internet Camera Server (TV-IP110).
The other said TRENDnet Wireless Internet Camera Server (TV-IP110W).
So I was wondering what difference the W made between the two. Besides about $ 40 that is.



Ok never mind.

One more question. Is the board that lens is on the actual camera. And if the round part cant be taken off the board what are the dimensions of that board?

mannyr7
04-18-2009, 10:09 AM
Probably the same spacing as on our Airlinks. They are either 1.25 or 1.27 mm. It's a challange to find connectors with the proper number of pins in stock. The 24 pin connectors might be a problem, but the 20 are easy with Digikey. Our Airlinks are 26 pins. I ended up ordering some 30's 'cause thats all that was available at the moment. We'll see how they fit in a day or two.

Gary
Hey Gary, how did those connectors work out for you? I'd like to multi-mount my cam board remotely from the power board as well.

gdubb2
04-18-2009, 11:00 AM
Manny,
Lets just say that making a cable with the ultra small connectors did not fit within my skill set. I gave up and just mounted the camera as a complete unit.
Gary

scowby
06-01-2009, 10:35 PM
Does anyone have the <embed> code for putting the camera into a webpage? Like, if you wanted to make the cam appear as some sort of <iframe> or whatever inside a page?

Adrenalynn
06-02-2009, 01:12 AM
One of the best things about this camera - GPL sourcecode for interface...

http://downloads.trendnet.com/tv-ip110w/gpl_all2281.tgz

mannyr7
06-08-2009, 02:49 PM
Has anybody wired their power leads directly to the board of this camera? I am wanting to eliminate the barrel plug and use some more flexible wire. When I put the multimeter across the left contact and the near right contact, I get .3 ohm, same as touching the mm probes together. When I touch left and far right, nothing. Near right and far right, nothing as well.http://lh3.ggpht.com/_RBehtyGR3tY/Si1pbIXh1hI/AAAAAAAAAWU/Z2RSo9WLUOY/s512/Picture%20002.jpg

DresnerRobotics
06-08-2009, 02:55 PM
One closest to the barrel plug opening is ground, the one that is parallel to it (not the one off to the side) is positive.

So, according to your doc: Near Right = Ground, Far Right = Positive.

I'm pulling this from memory though, so you might want to double check with a multimeter when it has power via plug.

"Left" will ground itself when you unplug the cable, but is positive when a cable is plugged in. I originally had positive on this, and negative on "Near Right" since thats what they were reading with the cable plugged in. It shorted my 5v supply, so use "Far Right" as positive ;)

mannyr7
06-09-2009, 05:32 PM
Thanks, that worked. Near R. = neg, Far R = pos

scowby
06-11-2009, 11:20 AM
This is good stuff, but I'm trying to take the output of this webcam and place it into a web page. Any ideas on that?

Adrenalynn
06-11-2009, 11:40 AM
For jpeg picture push, javascript and java source-code abounds.

For higher framerates, you'd use their API: http://www.trendnet.com/downloads/list_subcategory.asp?SUBTYPE_ID=1172 Look under "GPL Source Code"

Robot Dude
07-21-2009, 09:20 AM
Two questions, one comment...

Has anyone tried to eliminate the power board and provide power directly to the camera board? There is more circuitry on the power board then I originally thought...

Is there a way to flip the image on either end? It would be easier to mount the camera upside down if it's possible to invert it somewhere else.

Wow 2.5 amps for a camera! lol We may have to have a separate battery pack just for the camera... :rolleyes:

jes1510
07-21-2009, 09:35 AM
I measured around 750mA when a client was viewing the video.

The image can be flipped by using the onboard web server. It's buried somewhere in the setup options although I can't remember where. I have mine mounted upside down and it works great.

A couple of people have wondered the same thing about eliminating the power board. I found a cable for Connor that works if you want to move the power board somewhere else. I do think he had to repin the cable though.

DresnerRobotics
07-21-2009, 10:21 AM
You'll also want to tweak with the video compression settings a bit to get the best mix of framerate/picture quality. It works decently out of the box, but you can certainly get better performance with it with a few minor changes to the video settings.

Jes is right, it doesnt draw anywhere close to 2.5amp.

Connor
07-21-2009, 11:01 AM
Two questions, one comment...

Has anyone tried to eliminate the power board and provide power directly to the camera board? There is more circuitry on the power board then I originally thought...

Is there a way to flip the image on either end? It would be easier to mount the camera upside down if it's possible to invert it somewhere else.

Wow 2.5 amps for a camera! lol We may have to have a separate battery pack just for the camera... :rolleyes:

The power board has a regulator on it to drop the 5v down 3.3v (If I remeber correctly). So, you would have to have both 5v and 3.3v to feed the main camera.. (Yes, the main board is feed 5v power straight from the power brick through the power card). I ended up using a Castle BEC @ 5.1v and that works fine. As Jess stated, I ordered a cable, but, I had to flip the pins (even/odd) to get the correct pin out.

Thanks, Connor

Robot Dude
07-21-2009, 12:59 PM
I'm so glad to here the 2.5amps is not accurate! That makes life much easier. Thanks for the feedback. This is going to be awesome. :D

Peace! Jim

jes1510
07-21-2009, 01:30 PM
Well I'm sure it's accurate. A power adapter is rated by how much current it can source at a given voltage. This means that the adapter can source 2.5A at 5v. It doesn't mean that the load will be pulling that much.

Note that if the adapter is unregulated (just a transformer) then the load has to pull the rated current to achieve the given voltage. For example, if we have a 12v, 1A adapter and are only pulling 100mA or so then the voltage will measure higher than 12v. If we pull the 1A then the voltage will be right around the rated voltage.

mannyr7
07-21-2009, 06:01 PM
As Jess stated, I ordered a cable, but, I had to flip the pins (even/odd) to get the correct pin out.

Thanks, Connor

Link to this cable? I found the correct plug ends and cable to make an extender at Digikey, but sadly, my soldering skills weren't up to the task! What do mean by "flip the pins"? Can you go more into this?

nagmier
07-21-2009, 07:59 PM
manny, what I think he is reffering to there is a plastic retainer, for instance if you look at a standard servo connector you will see the metal showing through on one side on the side closer to the wire side there is a plastic piece that is part of the connector that actually holds the pins in place. With a knife or flathead screwdriver and some ingenuity you can get them out and move them around (again not 100&#37; sure this is what he is reffering to, and I could be confusing more than helping)

mannyr7
07-21-2009, 10:30 PM
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_RBehtyGR3tY/SmaE187lK4I/AAAAAAAAAdc/slAWWjfuOyA/s144/Trendnet%20power%20board%20connector.jpg
I had to draw it out before it snapped in my head. Swap the evens and odds. 1 becomes 2, 2 becomes 1, 3 becomes 4, 4 becomes 3, etc... Because just flipping the connector would put pin 1 at position 24 and pin 3 at position 22, etc... Sorry for not realizing the obvious. :o Still need the link for that cable though. :happy:

Connor
07-21-2009, 10:36 PM
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_RBehtyGR3tY/SmaE187lK4I/AAAAAAAAAdc/slAWWjfuOyA/s144/Trendnet%20power%20board%20connector.jpg
I had to draw it out before it snapped in my head. Swap the evens and odds. 1 becomes 2, 2 becomes 1, 3 becomes 4, 4 becomes 3, etc... Because just flipping the connector would put pin 1 at position 24 and pin 3 at position 22, etc... Sorry for not realizing the obvious. :o Still need the link for that cable though. :happy:

Yup, that's what I had to do.. here is the link to the cable I used.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SAM8317-ND

Thanks, Connor

Robot Dude
08-06-2009, 10:01 AM
We've got the TrandNet camera installed and it's working. It's connected with a laptop only, no wireless network on site. In fact there is no RF in the building. The laptop is an MSI GX630 with built in wifi. It's working well but will drop out and reconnect from time to time. Not sure if it's range or something else as it almost appears to be random. Anyone have any ideas?

Robot Dude
08-06-2009, 10:04 AM
Well I'm sure it's accurate. A power adapter is rated by how much current it can source at a given voltage. This means that the adapter can source 2.5A at 5v. It doesn't mean that the load will be pulling that much.

Was referring to the 2.5amp rating on the camera not the wall pack. :wink:

If the camera has 2.5a printed on it, but only draws 700mA I'd say the 2.5amp value is inaccurate.

Adrenalynn
08-06-2009, 10:16 AM
Mine died shortly after I got it. It started with those symptoms and then on to a hard lockup that required unplugging it to reset and then just about 45sec of ontime before it'd lock up again.

praelian
08-06-2009, 10:13 PM
Not to get off topic, but has anyone tried the SRV-1 blackfin/Wifi combo? I'm looking at that for my camera solution, any issues with it?

lnxfergy
08-06-2009, 10:15 PM
Not to get off topic, but has anyone tried the SRV-1 blackfin/Wifi combo? I'm looking at that for my camera solution, any issues with it?

It's a fairly advanced setup (not as plug and play as the Trendnet). However, I have one that just arrived today to play with....

-Fergs

SystemDefect
10-06-2009, 07:43 AM
I'm shopping around for the Camera system I will use and I'm finding many options but not as many details about my options such as Power consumption, Viewing angels, and weight. Companies never keep the hobbyist in mind when marketing there products, It's such a shame.

Does anyone know anything about..
Linksys WVC54GCA Wireless G WiFi Internet Home Camera (http://cgi.ebay.com/Linksys-WVC54GCA-Wireless-G-WiFi-Internet-Home-Camera_W0QQitemZ230380841727QQcmdZViewItemQQptZPCA _Video_Conferencing_Webcams?hash=item35a3c4aaff&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14)

Or the...
ES-IP606W WiFi Pan Tilt IP Camera
I like this one because it looks so Sci-fi, like the eye from the War-of-the-Worlds Tripods.

Adrenalynn
10-06-2009, 12:15 PM
If you can build a biped that can carry a pan/tilt wifi camera, more power to you! Plan on an entry point for the servos to carry that weight at around $10,000, but realistically plan $15,000 by the time you're done. Tyb's Giger might have a shot at it.

You could buy the Linksys, close your eyes and hope. Or you could get the Trendnet noted in the thread here, which has been tested good and used by the majority of competitors (and was used by the gold medalist) that have already paved the way. Reminds me I need to send one of mine back under RMA.

lnxfergy
10-06-2009, 12:32 PM
While it may initially seem like a good idea to get a camera with integrated pan and tilt, I'd venture a guess that it's actually a very poor route to go. Connor has a pan/tilt cam on his Argos bot, he's burnt several up if I recall, they aren't designed for extensive use. Second, most of these pan and tilt cameras cost quite a bit more, servos really aren't that expensive. The biggest problem I see is that you'll be stuck with whatever control protocol they provide -- that means either using the cruddy viewer they provide, or hacking the protocol, which may not be easy. On the other hand, you will already have a control system for making your bot walk in a particular direction, its not too tough to add pan/tilt there.

-Fergs

DresnerRobotics
10-06-2009, 12:34 PM
I'm shopping around for the Camera system I will use and I'm finding many options but not as many details about my options such as Power consumption, Viewing angels, and weight. Companies never keep the hobbyist in mind when marketing there products, It's such a shame.

Does anyone know anything about..
Linksys WVC54GCA Wireless G WiFi Internet Home Camera (http://cgi.ebay.com/Linksys-WVC54GCA-Wireless-G-WiFi-Internet-Home-Camera_W0QQitemZ230380841727QQcmdZViewItemQQptZPCA _Video_Conferencing_Webcams?hash=item35a3c4aaff&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14)

Or the...
ES-IP606W WiFi Pan Tilt IP Camera
I like this one because it looks so Sci-fi, like the eye from the War-of-the-Worlds Tripods.

I agree with 'Lynn here, stick with the 'known goods' and try out the Trendnet IP-110W, its solid for it's price. On the subject of pan/tilt IP cameras...I really cannot recommend that route. It's my opinion that you want your weapons mounted on the same pan/tilt as your camera, so you can shoot where you aim/look, etc... unless of course you're designing one hell of an assisted aiming/auto tracking system where it wouldn't be required.

But given that it looks like you're going the SES-based hitec style servo biped route, you're going to be fighting an uphill battle with payload as is, so I'd keep it minimalist and simple; One pan/tilt for your upper torso which houses your weapons and camera. The only way to get any room with payload is to go with very expensive servos (RX-64 and beyond) and custom brackets, which is where I've gone with Giger, and I still have payload considerations.

Connor
10-06-2009, 12:37 PM
While it may initially seem like a good idea to get a camera with integrated pan and tilt, I'd venture a guess that it's actually a very poor route to go. Connor has a pan/tilt cam on his Argos bot, he's burnt several up if I recall, they aren't designed for extensive use. Second, most of these pan and tilt cameras cost quite a bit more, servos really aren't that expensive. The biggest problem I see is that you'll be stuck with whatever control protocol they provide -- that means either using the cruddy viewer they provide, or hacking the protocol, which may not be easy. On the other hand, you will already have a control system for making your bot walk in a particular direction, its not too tough to add pan/tilt there.

-Fergs

Yea, the Logitech Orbit camera is what I'm using on Argos, and the gears for the PAN keep stripping.. I think the issue is the camera is encountering some resistance somewhere.. But, I've not had a chance to really figure it out. Stick with the Trendnet TV-IP110W camera.

Thanks, Connor

Adrenalynn
10-06-2009, 12:38 PM
That's an excellent point. The second point is one I was just discussing offline -

You'll appreciate that this is like clearing a hot room. Your weapon should be pointing in the direction you're looking. It does you little good if you see a badguy pop up and your weapon is pointing somewhere else. By the time you bring your weapon around, you've been double-tapped and your day has been resoundingly ruined. So we can make a perfect room-cleaning design by just fixing our camera and our weapon on the same pan or pan/tilt. We're always pointing where we're looking - if we see it we can choose to shoot it without any additional time or thought.

SystemDefect
10-06-2009, 12:52 PM
I never said anything about using the Pan and tilt portion of it, I was just searching for Cheap wifi cams, Things can always be stripped down. ;) But some are quick to throw sarcasm.

lnxfergy
10-06-2009, 12:59 PM
I never said anything about using the Pan and tilt portion of it, I was just searching for Cheap wifi cams, Things can always be stripped down. ;) But some are quick to throw sarcasm.

Oh sorry, I guess my mind reader was broken, I figured since you highlighted pan and tilt that you were planning to use it....

But on a serious note: the Trendnet is often <$70 on Amazon, I'm not sure you'll find a cheaper camera that works as well. And almost certainly, you won't find it by buying different ones and trying each of them. R&D costs money. Collectively we've tested a number of cameras, and so far, none have outperformed the Trendnet (in terms of performance or cost).

-Fergs

SystemDefect
10-06-2009, 01:06 PM
I apologize I guess I should pay a little bit more attention to what I cut and paste, It didn't show up as Highlighted when I clicked post

Adrenalynn
10-06-2009, 02:17 PM
Actually, and this is entirely rare ;) , my post wasn't intended as sarcasm but rather reality. The reality of bipeds is, simply, payload = money. Bipeds are a goldcard sport. They can carry as much as your credit rating but no more. It really is "all that".

SystemDefect
10-06-2009, 03:06 PM
unfortunately for my Pocket book your right, I am trying to build a powerful legged Bot. I'm planning on using 5990's but in tandem on each leg, with custom made feet. As for the cockpit I'm planning on using parts from Hobby Airplane kits to lighten the load as I intend to add more electronics then is necessary.

sthmck
10-06-2009, 11:18 PM
unfortunately for my Pocket book your right, I am trying to build a powerful legged Bot. I'm planning on using 5990's but in tandem on each leg, with custom made feet. As for the cockpit I'm planning on using parts from Hobby Airplane kits to lighten the load as I intend to add more electronics then is necessary.

Not to sound dumb here but why would you want to put more electronics than necessary on your mech?
I mean from my understanding these bots are suffering from weight issues with the parts they do have to carry. Why add more?

SystemDefect
10-07-2009, 08:48 AM
That's just because I want to do something differn't from everyone else, And we have gotten a little off topic for this thread, My bad ;)

Robot Dude
10-07-2009, 11:11 AM
nevermind...

DresnerRobotics
10-07-2009, 01:39 PM
nevermind...

I think the point here wasn't so much that he needs to go out and buy more expensive servos, but that he needs to be mindful of payload limitations. A camera that weighs 500g (like the pan/tilt one) is not going to happen on anything short of extremely high end servos, but more to the point; it's a waste when much lighter, compact cameras such as the trendnet IP-110W are available. That type of camera is perfectly suited for lighter bipeds such as the BRAT or Scout.

Robot Dude
10-08-2009, 10:24 AM
Wow some of you DO read minds... Yeah I posted something to that effect, and decided it wasn't worth the potential flamage. Was going to ask someone to delete the post. I'm too used to having admin privileges... lol

DresnerRobotics
10-08-2009, 12:57 PM
Wow some of you DO read minds... Yeah I posted something to that effect, and decided it wasn't worth the potential flamage. Was going to ask someone to delete the post. I'm too used to having admin privileges... lol

I don't think anything you said was deserving of any flaming; I understand your point, I just think mine might have come across in the wrong way! :)

robokoi
10-09-2009, 06:57 PM
back on topic (just for a moment, promise!)


But on a serious note: the Trendnet is often <$70 on Amazon, I'm not sure you'll find a cheaper camera that works as well. And almost certainly, you won't find it by buying different ones and trying each of them. R&D costs money. Collectively we've tested a number of cameras, and so far, none have outperformed the Trendnet (in terms of performance or cost).

Anyone reading this thread has (just maybe) heard about the Trendnet camera many times over. If we stop there, we may never find a better performing option. Anyone interested in trying other cameras should not be discouraged, but should be aware that they're funding some R&D and should probably work with the currently preferred camera at least as a backup.

On camera comparisons, is there anywhere outside this thread and a few others which collects and compares the tried cameras? I only really look in MechWarfare on the forums, so don't know if there's wiki-like areas we can use as well. This could apply to many other aspects of the game, too: comms & protocols, control devices (joysticks, etc), guns and other weapons, ...

gdubb2
10-09-2009, 07:13 PM
Our situation is a little on the unique side. We must deal with light weight, bouncing around on a walking robot, and a boatload of RF noise in the area. It may seem that others haven't been tested, but how does one duplicate the environment?

From personal experience, I can state that the Airlink AIC-250W does not work very well in this environment. While I was having difficulties at RoboGames, the folks with Trendnets were not. That was enough for me to change.

I am all in favor of testing, just don't know how do do it properly for our needs.

Good Luck
Gary
Mech: "Bheka"

lnxfergy
10-09-2009, 07:47 PM
Anyone reading this thread has (just maybe) heard about the Trendnet camera many times over. If we stop there, we may never find a better performing option. Anyone interested in trying other cameras should not be discouraged, but should be aware that they're funding some R&D and should probably work with the currently preferred camera at least as a backup.

On camera comparisons, is there anywhere outside this thread and a few others which collects and compares the tried cameras? I only really look in MechWarfare on the forums, so don't know if there's wiki-like areas we can use as well. This could apply to many other aspects of the game, too: comms & protocols, control devices (joysticks, etc), guns and other weapons, ...

I never suggested that we stop looking. But the original question asked 3 days ago was to evaluate several other cameras, and the OP of that question then followed up that "I was just searching for Cheap wifi cams". Hence, the Trendnet is probably the best option for him, if it has to be low cost, and the first one he buys has to "just work".

I would never discourage someone from further R&D, however, they need to know that it will cost money and that they also need a testing environment. You can't do R&D, and build a mech, on a shoe-string budget. Frankly, if you're looking to up your performance as much as possible for the lowest cost, I'd use the tried-and-true methods for things like cameras and control, and focus more on the walking and munitions -- that's where the biggest gains are to be had, and many of the gains for walking come down to spending time tuning software and gaits (essentially these gains are free if you don't track your time).

At the moment, the Trendnet is the only really well tested camera that is known to have held up at Robogames. As Gary has stated, the Airlink is worthless at RG (Tyberius and I can both attest it's practically worthless even outside RG, we both dumped it before the games due to the repeated signal dropping). Not sure what Linksys or the others have to offer now, but in the January to April 2009 timeframe, the offerings were all quite a bit heavier than the Trendnet, and I'm not sure that any gain in performance would be worth added weight for most competitors.

Edit: Just noticed that your question expanded to documentation beyond cameras. There are currently several tutorials on Mech building, and of course this forum. There is not yet a Wiki, or similar, for mech warfare (although I do like the idea). Unfortunately, you'll have to be careful walking through these threads, as there really are only a handful of people who've built a working (or even almost working) mech, and many more who've posted (at times) ridiculous things that did not pan out or work in the least.

-Fergs

DresnerRobotics
10-09-2009, 08:58 PM
Then there is the $400 professional grade wifi video encoder + nearly HD camera setup I picked up for Hagetaka, which is only marginally better than the $70-90 Trendnet IP-110W...

Adrenalynn
10-09-2009, 11:01 PM
I try about $350,000 worth of cameras a year, give or take. They have individual prices sampled from the manufacturer varying from free to ~$4000ea. Believe me - when I find a killer camera for this application, yall will hear about it, and I'll do my darndest to stock enough of 'em to cover M-W.

robokoi
10-10-2009, 06:14 AM
... you'll have to be careful walking through these threads, as there really are only a handful of people who've built a working (or even almost working) mech, and many more who've posted (at times) ridiculous things that did not pan out or work in the least.


exactly why I was thinking about a wiki or other page with the information and stats of what had been done in various areas. I haven't built a working mech yet, but do get lost in some of the thread postings on what worked and what didn't.

robokoi
10-10-2009, 06:17 AM
I try about $350,000 worth of cameras a year, give or take. They have individual prices sampled from the manufacturer varying from free to ~$4000ea. Believe me - when I find a killer camera for this application, yall will hear about it, and I'll do my darndest to stock enough of 'em to cover M-W.


wow, I knew you did video professionally, but you still take time to eval the cheap stuff? thanks! Just hope that *best* camera isn't one of the $4k ones! ;)

DresnerRobotics
10-10-2009, 08:50 AM
exactly why I was thinking about a wiki or other page with the information and stats of what had been done in various areas. I haven't built a working mech yet, but do get lost in some of the thread postings on what worked and what didn't.

Probably a very good idea tbh, there is a lot of information sort of thrown into pages of discussion. We could even keep it pretty minimalist at first and just add in the 'must knows'.

Adrenalynn
10-10-2009, 11:12 AM
wow, I knew you did video professionally, but you still take time to eval the cheap stuff? thanks! Just hope that *best* camera isn't one of the $4k ones! ;)


If you follow the link in my signature link, you'll understand. ;)

muc
10-10-2009, 03:52 PM
How did the spectrum look at 915MHz and 1250MHz @ the games? Would there be any way to use analog video equipment at these frequencies? What frequencies were tried besides 2.4 and 5.8GHz?

Also, there are some new baby monitors out that say they are FHSS. Has anyone looked at these? I'm planning to test some wireless encoder/decoder sets soon. This way you could use any analog camera and output to PC or analog monitor.

Are there any rules against multiple cameras? Forward/side/rear looking

DresnerRobotics
10-10-2009, 08:23 PM
Are there any rules against multiple cameras? Forward/side/rear looking

Mostly just the rules of gravity. Multiple cameras = more weight. Also, respect for other competitors should be factored in here; if you show up with a multi-camera system (sitting on 5 grand+ worth of servos, of course) and your system causes interference with other competitors, you'll be asked to limit it to one camera for the sake of the competition.

tuzzer
11-17-2009, 12:29 PM
Hi

Thank you for the pictures and weight measurement.
Is it possible to also post the dimension of the boards as well?
I couldn't really tell the dimensions from that calliper and some dimensions are missing.



Matthew

gdubb2
11-17-2009, 12:53 PM
My camera is all mounted, but here are some rough measurements.

Main board is about 85mm X 63mm. The camera board mounts to the main board, but is spaced out about 5mm from the front of the main board. The power supply board is about 60mm wide X 45mm deep. As you can tell from the pictures on page 1 of this thread, the camera board is odd shaped but it basically must mount to the main board. The power supply could be relocated, but the pins are not friendly.

I just removed mine from the case to save weight and made new mounts from styrene.

Comment: To avoid confusion, I started with the Airlink camera but changed to the Trendnet. These measurements are for the Trendnet.

Good luck
Gary

praelian
01-07-2010, 05:38 PM
So I finally got the camera to hook up, but I'm not sure how you got the power to it. Reading through the post looks like people may have went two routes, 1- use the barrel plug with the breakout board or 2-used a different cable connector from digi-key without the breakout board. Thoughts, techniques used?

So far the path of least resistance for me is to use the barrel plug.

gdubb2
01-07-2010, 06:36 PM
I used a barrel plug. That way for bench testing, I can use a power supply, when on the floor walking around, 6 volt battery pack.

Gary

lnxfergy
01-07-2010, 07:03 PM
Same, I made up a little Receiver-Pack-Plug to Barrel converter, I plug my 6.0V battery right in.

-Fergs

Adrenalynn
01-07-2010, 07:57 PM
I have pigtails with barrel plugs on my site, male and female, for like $1.50 or something...

Search PT-3 and PT-4

lnxfergy
01-07-2010, 08:05 PM
Radio Shack may actually have the barrel plug you need... mine did.

-Fergs

praelian
01-07-2010, 08:58 PM
I just stripped off the end of the adapter and was going to get the correct connectors at the rc shop to plug it in (I assume that is safe, I'm a EE n00b) to a 6v source. I'm getting ready to convert my power source over to LiPo so either I'll have a working bot or a pile of melted scraps!

Adrenalynn
01-08-2010, 02:52 AM
I'd resist the urge to plug the camera into 6v. That regulator is pretty touchy - I suspect one side may be unregulated and it's expecting the 5v from the adapter to be regulated. [shrug] I've offed one camera that way...

jes1510
01-08-2010, 09:13 AM
I'll agree with Adrenalynn. I used a castle creations BEC. It ouputs 5.1v out of the box so it doesn't need to be programmed. Plus it can source like a bazillion Amps.

gdubb2
01-08-2010, 11:57 AM
I should agree with the 6 volt thing.. But I have been running mine from a 6 volt NiMH pack since I got it. I do use 5 volts for a bench supply. With a LiPo, I believe that a regulator would be required, since you have 7.4 to start with. Perhaps I'll fry mine, perhaps not.. hasn't yet.

Gary

webgeek
01-10-2010, 06:57 PM
Java code To view the real-time video feed
I don't know if this is of use to many people or not, but it took me some time to track down and some experimentation to make sure it worked so I figured I'd post it. The code linked in this specific post will work out of the gate with the Trendnet IP110w camera. It appears to support HTTP authentication as well if that's needed (mine was disabled). Here is the link:
http://forums.sun.com/thread.jspa?messageID=4042430#4042430

Specifically, the MJPEGBean and MJPEGParser code is of interest. To use this code, just null out the username/password field and point the code at your MJPEG URL for the camera. The format (also something I had to track down) is this:
http://<camera IP>:<camera port>/cgi/mjpg/mjpeg.cgi

I've got it up and running now and it seems pretty solid. At the highest quality video, 640x480 frame rate hovers right around 29-31 and the lag is pretty low (wired into local network which is CAT 6 with a gig-e switch in the basement so I basically assume minimal network latency between machines). I didn't bother checking bandwidth usage, I'm sure it takes a stupid amount - MJPEG isn't know for being very efficient. As best I can tell, the camera occasionally puts out glitchy JPG headers (like two start of image headers in a row) which will make the code grumble but it will simply ignore that frame and continue with the next. I've only seen it do this once though so I'm not sure how much to read into it. If I see it happen more often I'll put together a patch to clean the header out.

I'll be tweaking the code as I go over time and if I run into anything major I'll let people know. It's not the prettiest code, but considering it works out of the gate it's a good starting point. Have fun!

-Mike

P.S. All credit goes to the original authors, Carl Gould and David E. Mireles on the Sun forums - I didn't write any of this!

Upgrayd
01-10-2010, 07:30 PM
Amazon is offering a 30 dollar rebate on the TRENDnet TV-IP110W camera at the moment for those looking to get one. the item also applies for free shipping.

Adrenalynn
01-11-2010, 10:45 AM
>> frame rate hovers right around 29-31

The imager only delivers 30fps to the compression engine on the camera internally, so it's physically impossible for the camera to deliver 31fps. Your frame counter is playing games with you, or it's fetching the same frame more than once.

webgeek
01-11-2010, 11:05 AM
The imager only delivers 30fps to the compression engine on the camera internally, so it's physically impossible for the camera to deliver 31fps. Your frame counter is playing games with you, or it's fetching the same frame more than once. I didn't actually write the frame counter - it's in the code I linked. I wouldn't be surprised if he has some inaccuracy with the timer combined with some rounding to make the frame rate incorrect.

Adrenalynn
01-11-2010, 12:11 PM
Nod. Just pointing out the inaccuracy.

FlowbotX
03-04-2010, 02:48 PM
Hey guys,

I have looked at the Java code posted earlier for connecting to the camera...but I'm not a java progrrammer so I was wondering:

Does anyone have any C#.net of vb.net code to connect to the camera webserver, grab the mpeg video stream, parse it, and display the results in a picture/imagebox? If so, I would really appreciate some help.

Thanks.

mannyr7
03-04-2010, 04:01 PM
just add a c# or vb webBrowser control to your form and point it to http://XXX.XXX.XXX.XXX/view2.cgi?profile=5. Replace the xx's with your camera's IP. This will load just the video stream into your webBrowser control, minus the Trendnet GUI controls.

antaholics
03-23-2010, 02:16 AM
just add a c# or vb webBrowser control to your form and point it to http://XXX.XXX.XXX.XXX/view2.cgi?profile=5. Replace the xx's with your camera's IP. This will load just the video stream into your webBrowser control, minus the Trendnet GUI controls.

I tried doing this... but for some reason the java applet is making my form very unstable. It crashes a lot while trying to load the java applet (no exceptions thrown, program just freezes). Any idea why this might be happening? I'm doing my coding in C# 3.5

Thanks!

tuzzer
03-25-2010, 02:27 PM
Yup, that's what I had to do.. here is the link to the cable I used.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SAM8317-ND

Thanks, Connor


Hi,


I am also looking for those cables right now. The one you posted is not current in stock.
And I have trouble identifying which headers and receptacle combination or full cable that would work.

How would I go about searching for one?

MAtthew

mannyr7
03-25-2010, 05:17 PM
I believe it comes with the correct socket and header already. But he had to flip one end to get the correct pin out. Google shows lead time of 17 days direct from the manufacturer, Samtech at http://www.newark.com/jsp/displayProduct.jsp?sku=12P0148&CMP=KNC-G10000761

I just ordered a sample from samtech.com (http://samtech.com). Says they'll overnight it for free. In the notes, I wonder if I could have had them reverse the header for me too?

tuzzer
04-06-2010, 03:38 PM
Yup, that's what I had to do.. here is the link to the cable I used.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SAM8317-ND

Thanks, Connor
I got that cable now. Could you please explain to me how to switch the pin? I tried, but I still see any easy way to do that.

Connor
04-06-2010, 03:56 PM
I got that cable now. Could you please explain to me how to switch the pin? I tried, but I still see any easy way to do that.

It's not easy. You need to remove socket side connector. Using a Xacto knife, separate the wires about 1/2 to 3/4 of a inch. Take some scotch tape.. and lay it sticky side up on your desk. Put the wire on the tape. Using a pair of tweezers.. working your way from the bottom up, crossing the even wires over top of the odd ones... using the tape to keep the wires in position.. Be sure to place them as close together as you can.. once your done.. reassemble (leave about a 1/8 to 1/4 " of the wire beyond the connector) If the cable tests out okay, you can trim the excess wire. I had to reassemble my cable twice, because the first time I didn't match up with all the wires.. and yes, I tested with a Multi-meter before I used it on the camera.

Thanks, Connor

tuzzer
04-07-2010, 12:16 AM
It's not easy. You need to remove socket side connector. Using a Xacto knife, separate the wires about 1/2 to 3/4 of a inch. Take some scotch tape.. and lay it sticky side up on your desk. Put the wire on the tape. Using a pair of tweezers.. working your way from the bottom up, crossing the even wires over top of the odd ones... using the tape to keep the wires in position.. Be sure to place them as close together as you can.. once your done.. reassemble (leave about a 1/8 to 1/4 " of the wire beyond the connector) If the cable tests out okay, you can trim the excess wire. I had to reassemble my cable twice, because the first time I didn't match up with all the wires.. and yes, I tested with a Multi-meter before I used it on the camera.

Thanks, Connor

Thanks! That seems like a lot of work.
I figured a way to get mine working the easy way. I have two of the same cables and I attached them the "opposite" way. And it works perfectly fine, except now that I have a longer cable.


Matthew

zoomkat
05-15-2010, 03:04 AM
I've seen the below cam mentioned in other forums. Don't have personal experience with it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-WPA-Wireless-WiFi-IP-Internet-PTZ-Dual-Audio-Camera-/220561313027?cmd=ViewItem&pt=PCA_Video_Conferencing_Webcams&hash=item335a7a8d03

master_of_robots
05-28-2010, 12:19 PM
I've been using the Zonet ZVC7630W wireless IP webcam (http://www.zonetusa.com/products-71.aspx) for some time, and I've been quite happy with it. I can get 640x480 at 29fps in low lux using mjpeg streaming with ease. It integrates with web pages (via java applet) or with a standalone app (works with Java, Processing, Python and maybe others).

I believe it has similar components to the Trendnet 110 unit. I'll def be using it in the 2011 RG. Feel free to ask me any questions about it.

webgeek
05-28-2010, 12:25 PM
Stupid question, but have you used the Trendnet as well? I'd love a head-to-head comparison. I've been pretty impressed with the Trendnet to be honest but I'm totally open.

master_of_robots
05-28-2010, 01:07 PM
Stupid question, but have you used the Trendnet as well? I'd love a head-to-head comparison. I've been pretty impressed with the Trendnet to be honest but I'm totally open.

Unfortunately, no. I've wanted to play with one, but I don't know any one that has one. I've heard some people saying that they have to use it at 320x240 and that you can't see laser pointers on it. On mine, I can see laser pointers clear as day, so I wanted to offer it as an alternative. It also has a more vertical profile versus the horizontal profile the Trendnet has. Might help someone who has a differently shaped bot.

gdubb2
05-28-2010, 01:24 PM
Just looking at the Trendnet TV-IP312W, It looks to be the same camera as the Zonet. Same case, same connectors, sound, USB connector..and about the same price.. give or take. These are both quite a bit more $$ than the IP-110W that we have been using.

Gary

zoomkat
05-28-2010, 01:58 PM
With the wireless zonet cam, can the wireless be switched off for use just with the ethernet connection?

master_of_robots
05-28-2010, 03:56 PM
With the wireless zonet cam, can the wireless be switched off for use just with the ethernet connection?

You can use the wired instead of the wireless, and I'm pretty sure you can turn off the signal completely to help conserve power. I'll turn it on and check the settings when I get home to confirm.

Some other cool features of the camera is that it supports 2 way audio (using the Active-X plugin) and it can control two servos via the camera server. I've also tested this unit with vibration, and the picture is quite clear. Not nearly as much blurring as with a Logitech USB webcam.

Here is what it looks like on the robot: http://vimeo.com/5746437

For the 2011 RG I'm working on a new upper half/gimble so this video is a little dated.

zoomkat
05-28-2010, 04:55 PM
My interest is that I now have an arduino/ethernet shield combo working thru a wireless router. Looking for an inexpensive IP cam to also work thru the router. Being able to turn off the cam wifi might cut down of RF clutter for the router. Also, can the IR leds turned on/off to save power? Looking to use the wireless router/arduino on a bot to replace the need for a computer on the bot.

master_of_robots
05-28-2010, 08:30 PM
My interest is that I now have an arduino/ethernet shield combo working thru a wireless router. Looking for an inexpensive IP cam to also work thru the router. Being able to turn off the cam wifi might cut down of RF clutter for the router. Also, can the IR leds turned on/off to save power? Looking to use the wireless router/arduino on a bot to replace the need for a computer on the bot.

If that's the case, you could get the wired only version of the camera (http://www.zonetusa.com/products-70.aspx). The IR LEDs can be turned off to save electricity. Love the arduino btw.

webgeek
05-28-2010, 09:58 PM
With the IP110, I've had no trouble pulling a good frame rate 620x480 MGPEG stream. That's why I asked because it's worked quite well in all my testing though I've not had a chance to use it in a high-noise environment and it is absolutely sensitive to low-light levels.

lnxfergy
05-28-2010, 10:16 PM
For MW, I wouldn't worry about low lighting -- the opposite is actually more likely to be a problem. Towards the end of Sunday we had a lot of sunshine coming in from the end of the building, washing out cameras at the right angle.

-Fergs

DresnerRobotics
05-28-2010, 10:55 PM
For MW, I wouldn't worry about low lighting -- the opposite is actually more likely to be a problem. Towards the end of Sunday we had a lot of sunshine coming in from the end of the building, washing out cameras at the right angle.

-Fergs

"WTF who is shining a flashlight at Giger??? I can't see anything!"

"Uhh, Andrew, that's the sun."

lnxfergy
05-28-2010, 11:12 PM
"WTF who is shining a flashlight at Giger??? I can't see anything!"

"Uhh, Andrew, that's the sun."

That conversation, was exactly what I was thinking about when I posted it.... I almost typed it in..

-Fergs

zoomkat
05-29-2010, 11:17 AM
I looked at the ZONET user's manual, but didn't see an example of how to put single frame images into a web page. Is this possible with the ZONET cams?

zoomkat
05-29-2010, 02:55 PM
master_of_robots, your bot appears to have a netbook on it. If this true, why not just use an inexpensive USB cam thru the netbook (assuming the netbook is in the bot control loop and running windows)?

master_of_robots
06-01-2010, 09:05 AM
I looked at the ZONET user's manual, but didn't see an example of how to put single frame images into a web page. Is this possible with the ZONET cams?

This really isn't in the manual. I had to request the SDK from Zonet, which gives a breakdown of all of the http commands that you would need to control the camera, and retrieve video/images. For example, you could have a web page call a URL that would retrieve a single image. For video though, I took the java applet that was embedded in the admin web app, and put it in my own set of web pages. This allowed me to style the page that was around the video output, as well as add my own dashboard and controls.


master_of_robots, your bot appears to have a netbook on it. If this true, why not just use an inexpensive USB cam thru the netbook (assuming the netbook is in the bot control loop and running windows)?

I had thought about using a webcam, but even the best Logitech webcam was no match for the Zonet when it cam to blurring during vibration. If I used the webcam, I fear it would be so blurry, that it would be pointless. It takes a lot of movement to blur the Zonet output feed.

darkback2
06-01-2010, 10:31 AM
Squidword and Charlie both started out using USB cams connected through the inboard pc. The problem seamed to come from the fact that that meant all of the data, both video and controls were being sent through the same connection. Sure at home my frame rates were fine, but even then the frame on the camera would freeze up from time to time. At the event the camera connection would freeze up and I would get a bunch of dropped packet errors. Switching to a wifi cam with its own signal took care of that in a hurry. If the camera could connect, then things were fine. The trend net does a fairly good job of dealing with shake also.

elaughlin
06-08-2010, 09:25 PM
Is the camera able to be detached from the board and placed in any location and connected back by cables by any chance?

lnxfergy
06-08-2010, 10:22 PM
Is the camera able to be detached from the board and placed in any location and connected back by cables by any chance?

Is it possible? yes. Is it easy. no. It's a fairly high density header - with a very fine pitch.

-Fergs

elaughlin
06-19-2010, 12:14 PM
Would anyone be able to do that for me. I would buy the camera send it to you, break it down, and cable it up, and pay for the work and extra cable/connectors that would be needed?

animeunplugged
09-07-2010, 11:42 AM
thank you so much!!! That camera would be perfect for one of my robot projets!!!

bloftin
02-04-2011, 11:50 AM
I need a little camera help. Trying to get our Mech ready for 2011, but the wireless cameras are proving to be the biggest problem. Here is a breakdown of what is happening with 2 ip cameras we are trying

Trendnet 110w - ip setup wizard

http://www.trendnet.com/downloads/list_subcategory.asp?SUBTYPE_ID=1172 (http://www.trendnet.com/downloads/list_subcategory.asp?SUBTYPE_ID=1172)


Cisco/Linksys camera - download setup wizard

http://www.linksysbycisco.com/LATAM/en/support/WVC80N/download (http://www.linksysbycisco.com/LATAM/en/support/WVC80N/download)


They both have exactly the same symptoms, which leads me to believe it is a configuration issue.

1) They both worked while wired to the router for setup and nice frame rates of 20-30 fps.
2) Both could not connect to my new dlink that uses WPA2 encryption
3) Both could connect to my old microsoft router with security turned off, but would get 5 fps with 1 sec delays and often crashes in under 5 minutes
4) Both could connect to my new dlink router with security turned off, but would get 5fps with 1 sec delays and often crashes in under 5 minutes
5) In adhoc mode the cisco camera behaved similar to turning security off - A glimmer of hope occurred when I switched from mjpeg to mpeg, delay and fps went up but it stopped working shortly


Any helpful tips?

DresnerRobotics
02-04-2011, 12:09 PM
Don't run any security, it'll just add packets to the mix. We ran with SSID not broadcasted and filtered by MAC address.

Where is your antenna mounted? Are these results with the cameras free standing?

Are you running B/G? Is your computer hardwired into the router?

gdubb2
02-04-2011, 12:49 PM
To back up what Tybs said, I would suggest :
No encryption.
hard wire from router to computer.
Dont' even consider Ad-Hoc mode. Run like a scalded dog.....

You didn't say what resolution you were using, but if it's too high, it can limit things as well.

This works with my Trendnet 110W and a Netgear router.
I tried Ad-hoc and it virtually killed the video signal..

Good Luck.

bloftin
02-05-2011, 06:34 PM
Thanks for the tips. I got it working with lower quality video and no encryption.

agildz
02-14-2011, 12:31 AM
I'll agree with Adrenalynn. I used a castle creations BEC. It ouputs 5.1v out of the box so it doesn't need to be programmed. Plus it can source like a bazillion Amps.

what is it going well?
I use a regulator LT1803CP-5 ..
but too fast heat
datasheet can be viewed at http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/70317/LINER/LT1083CP-5.html

maybe there is can help me?
thks
:)

jes1510
02-14-2011, 10:15 AM
Assuming you have everything wired correctly then you will almost definitely need a heat sink. Check the current to make sure that everything is wired correctly. The Trendnet cam should pull a bit less than 1A.

The regulator I recommend above is a switcher so it won't have the same thermal problems you get with a linear regulator.

Gertlex
06-25-2011, 09:45 AM
I noticed last night that Newegg has an N version of the trendnet camera now (no reviews so it must be newish). The product specs note that it comes with a 2.5A power supply rather than the 2A power supply of the regular version. Might draw more power.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16881102043&cm_re=trendnet_wireless_n_camera-_-81-102-043-_-Product

It's also cheaper at the moment (by a few $$s). The model is TRENDnet TV-IP110WN. It's also on Amazon, which lists it as first being listed at the end of March.

gdubb2
06-25-2011, 09:51 AM
Not a bad price either.. can't use the "N" feature at RG, but it will still do G..

Gertlex
07-27-2011, 11:26 PM
I ended up with a $40 TRENDnet W. Figured I'd share the method I found for quickly mounting this to a bioloid pan/tilt setup. Basically a single zip tie (6" size) through the middle slits on the bottom of the camera's case, and then around the "flat" AX-12 bracket. This takes a minimum amount of dremeling: (1) remove part of the ridge inside the camera, and remove the center row of protrusions (the bits that hold the 2mm nuts) on the underside of the bioloid bracket.

There's a tiny bit of slop, but for a quick and dirty setup, this is nice :)

Gertlex
08-04-2011, 11:56 AM
Trendnet wireless N camera is $50 at Newegg right now. Another $5 off with coupon code EMCKBKF79 today (Aug 4) only.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16881102043&Tpk=trendnet%20110wn

elaughlin
08-04-2011, 07:38 PM
I saw that also, and was going to mention it here, but I think N wireless is still off limits to use so far with Mech Warfare.

Stobs
08-04-2011, 08:05 PM
@Gertlex: Thanks for the post, much appreciated.

@elaughlin: The specifications state it complies with the "IEEE 802.11b/g/n" standard... but, I'll post when it comes in.

Regards

Gertlex
08-04-2011, 08:31 PM
I'm getting it to see if I can use it at home more easily. Right now I have to change my wifi card from a dynamic IP to a static IP in order to do Ad-hoc with the camera. My wifi card can also mimic a router while simultaneously getting internet from another broadcasted source. My guess from a few tries and fails in the past is that only N devices can connect to my fake router. The N version might allow me to connect much easier and also still have access to the internet while doing so.

DresnerRobotics
08-05-2011, 10:43 AM
Ad-hoc is terrible. Don't use it.

Most N-cameras can be changed to B/G bands, so they'd be compliant.

Gertlex
08-09-2011, 11:07 PM
Got my Trendnet IP110WN. A few tiny differences:
-Software interface is now black themed instead of blue :P
-Has an undocumented button on the side labeld WIP. Pressing this when it's connected disconnects it and seems to require a power reset to connect again. the 110W has holes for said button on the PCB, so I'll probably just desolder this one.
-It works with my wifi card's "faked" router, so no ad-hoc :P
-The wifi card is really the only redesigned part of the camera... it has a smaller piece of metal covering the IC (saves 1 gram... x) ), and only has one U.FL connector rather than two like the 110W

And pics attached. 110WN on left, 110W on right.

bamx2
12-22-2011, 08:01 AM
Excellent write-up !

I would like to change the lens to a wide angle lens (maybe 2.8 mm or less ?) Any suggestions on what will work ( and sources ) ? - Thanks

gdubb2
12-22-2011, 11:13 AM
When I first started with a Mech, I used an Airlink camera (which was terrible by the way).. Anyway, I bought 2.1mm and 4mm lenses from emonitoringsolutions.com. The lenses worked well on the Airlink, but when I switched to the Trendnet, the threaded barrel part of the lens was much too long. (10mm) and the camera wouldn't focus.The trendnet 110 cameras have a very short coupled lens mount. The threads are the same diameter as a standard micro size lens, just much shorter.

The lenses are called micro size, and appear to have a threaded area of 12mm dia and about 10mm long.

These were generic lenses, not specifically for the Airlink, so It's probably a common size. Don't have a clue where to find the shorter ones.

Good Luck
Gary

bamx2
12-22-2011, 03:44 PM
gdubb2- Thanks for the info . My camera is actually a Trendnet 312w . Maybe it is more similar to the Airlink101 AICN500W than the Trendnet110 (wishful thinking) . Perhaps, I should order an inexpensive board lens and see if it works .

Edit- I think I found the information that I was looking for while looking for a wide angle lens online. I saw the post below on the DX site where someone used a 2.1mm lens on a Zonet ZVC7611 camera ( uses the same OEM Fitivision CS1000 platform as the Trendent TV-IP110 , Airlink AICN500 etc .). I would try a 2.8 mm lens and hopefully not have to move the mount .

From - http://www.dealextreme.com/feedbacks/BrowseReviews.dx/sku.15237 (http://www.dealextreme.com/feedbacks/BrowseReviews.dx/sku.15237) -

"2.1mm 160-Degree Wide Angle Lens for Security Cameras and Webcams (http://www.dealextreme.com/p/15237)


Displaying reviews posted by certified DX gadget owners first, followed by all other posted reviews.1



http://forums.trossenrobotics.com//img.dxcdn.com/productimages/sku_15237_1_small.jpg (http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/p/2-1mm-160-degree-wide-angle-lens-for-security-cameras-and-webcams-15237)
2.1mm 160-Degree Wide Angle Lens for Security Cameras and Webcams (http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/p/2-1mm-160-degree-wide-angle-lens-for-security-cameras-and-webcams-15237)
DX Price: $6.40

http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/images/addtocart.gif (http://www.dealextreme.com/shoppingcart.dx/add.15237~quantity.1)

View Product Details (http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/p/2-1mm-160-degree-wide-angle-lens-for-security-cameras-and-webcams-15237)
http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/images/verifiedowner.gif A little blurry, no IR filter, but very wide angle
http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/images/spacer.gif
Posted by rocketmonkeys on 3/20/2011
Involvement: General (knows how to use it) - Ownership: 1 day to 1 week



Price:
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Ease of Use:
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Build Quality:
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Usefulness:
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Overall Rating:
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Pros:
I had a webcam (zonet zvc7611) that needed a wider angle. The threads on this lens fit perfectly, but the focal distance is longer so this lens needs to be further away than the stock lens. This means that the lens had to be held in *front* of the lens mount for the image to be in focus.
To solve this, I put spacers (little washers) between the lens mount and the circuit board. The screws still secure the lens mount (even though it's a little wobbly now), and the lens *just* barely focuses.
The image has strange colors due to the lack of IR filter, but picks up a lot more light indoors because of that. It also does *amazing* in low light / nighttime compared to the stock lens, and I don't even need an IR LED array - a little night light in the corner of the room provides more than enough light to see now.
The focus is decent but not great, in the middle of the image. It's awful at the edges. Not a big deal, since the view-angle is so large.
And the view angle is large (!!!). I can see a *lot* more with this lens than the stock one, and it's really made this webcam much better for my purposes.

Cons:
Blurry outer edges.
Needs longer lens mount than stock, required mods.

Bottomline:
Where image quality is not the top priority, but you need a wider viewing angle, this is an awesome lens. Worth the price, even if it does seem a bit much at first. Highly recommended for those in similar situations."

gdubb2
12-22-2011, 06:11 PM
The Airlink I had was this one. (discontinued)

http://www.airlink101.com/products/aic250w.php

A board lens just might work though.

One thing I did notice though, was that the wide angle view threw your visual reference all off when in battle. I went back to the standard lens while fighting the robot.

Good luck.

gdubb2
03-13-2012, 11:19 AM
The Trendnet that this thread is about has a proven track record.

djringis
03-26-2012, 05:18 PM
We use this trendnet for our store and we figured we would get another one to try on the mech. The set up has been incredibly easy, right now we are debating whether to leave it in the plastic casing or not, because it feels like the white plastic is almost weightless just clunky. We are going to use a 5V switching regulator to power it and with a 7.2V battery.

Any suggestions of whether to keep the casing or not?

Thanks

cire
03-26-2012, 05:26 PM
We use this trendnet for our store and we figured we would get another one to try on the mech. The set up has been incredibly easy, right now we are debating whether to leave it in the plastic casing or not, because it feels like the white plastic is almost weightless just clunky. We are going to use a 5V switching regulator to power it and with a 7.2V battery.

Any suggestions of whether to keep the casing or not?

Thanks
This depends on how well you design your robot. Unfortunately the camera is so big you basically have to design the robot around the camera (same case with most guns too). If you didn't design the robot around the camera, you probably won't save any weight with your new mount for the electronics anyways. Also there is the matter of how much time you have left until the robot needs to be finished.

djringis
03-26-2012, 10:06 PM
This depends on how well you design your robot. Unfortunately the camera is so big you basically have to design the robot around the camera (same case with most guns too). If you didn't design the robot around the camera, you probably won't save any weight with your new mount for the electronics anyways. Also there is the matter of how much time you have left until the robot needs to be finished.

Thanks, so far our robot from rolling robots we intend on the camera being the overall torso with a frame around it, time is most likely the deciding factor for us

grenadapult
07-27-2012, 07:43 AM
I thought I better let everyone know, Newegg has refurbished Trendnet cams on sale for a few days only!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16881102052&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL072712&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL072712-_-EMC-072712-Index-_-SurveillanceCameras-_-81102052-L024A