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mannyr7
02-28-2009, 04:08 PM
Got some vid of my brand-spanking new bot.

YouTube - 27Feb2009 vid1 avi

YouTube - 27Feb2009 vid2 avi

Its a 4 DOF per leg Lynxmotion-based bot using Hitec HS-645MG. I named it Clyde after the orangutan in 'Any which way but loose', because I couldn't think of any clever acronyms.
Here's my site for more info: https://sites.google.com/site/mannysrobotpage/
http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/%3Cobject%20width=%22425%22%20height=%22344%22%3E% 3Cparam%20name=%22movie%22%20value=%22http://www.youtube.com/v/VGvXhEBZAMQ&hl=en&fs=1%22%3E%3C/param%3E%3Cparam%20name=%22allowFullScreen%22%20va lue=%22true%22%3E%3C/param%3E%3Cparam%20name=%22allowscriptaccess%22%20 value=%22always%22%3E%3C/param%3E%3Cembed%20src=%22http://www.youtube.com/v/VGvXhEBZAMQ&hl=en&fs=1%22%20type=%22application/x-shockwave-flash%22%20allowscriptaccess=%22always%22%20allowf ullscreen=%22true%22%20width=%22425%22%20height=%2 2344%22%3E%3C/embed%3E%3C/object%3E

darkback2
02-28-2009, 11:16 PM
Pretty cool. Its nice that you are getting so much out of 645s. Can't wait to see it walk.

I also like your get up sequence.

DB

Zenta
03-01-2009, 05:06 AM
Congratz with your bot!
As DB mention the get up sequence are great.

mannyr7
03-01-2009, 11:23 PM
I got some more video. This my first walking sequence. You'll note the lines done in sharpie on the work bench to guage his ability to walk in a straight line. Well after many hours of tweaking, and a few beers later, got him to pass a sobriety check. Can't say the same for me. Enjoy. And thank you for the compliments.

YouTube - 01March2009 vid3

Also moved my webcam to the garage, so if you wanna see what I'm up to, drop by!
I'm on yahoo messenger: mramirezjr7 (AT) yahoo (DOT) com

jes1510
03-02-2009, 09:50 AM
How well are the 645's performing? I was considering a humanoid much like like the lynxmotion Scout using the 645MG's. Are they performing pretty well? Are they getting hot? Can Clyde carry his own battery and electronics?

Nice work so far!

mannyr7
03-02-2009, 04:14 PM
How well are the 645's performing? I was considering a humanoid much like like the lynxmotion Scout using the 645MG's. Are they performing pretty well? Are they getting hot? Can Clyde carry his own battery and electronics?

Nice work so far!

They have plenty of torque and speed. I accidently triggered a sequence while holding him behind the knee/ankle joint and crunched my finger. Hurt like heck! I ran him last night with a 2.4gHz wireless cam and additional 9v alkaline to power it, no problems. Didn't even have to touch my walk sequence to offset the added weight. Now, two airsoft cannons, batteries to power em, ammunition, bluesmirf, two more servos for pan/tilt, and accelerometer, plus vacu-formed armor is another thing entirely! But.. I think with careful weight distribution, the 645's still have enough torque to move it all. As for heat, at 6v they aren't hot at all. I got all mine on ebay $17-$28 each, shipping included.

Connor
05-01-2009, 11:32 PM
Any update on your mech?

mannyr7
05-17-2009, 01:54 AM
Sorry for the lack of updates, been doing lots of OT to fund my hobby and dealing with personal issues. Since the debut of Clyde, the added weight of pan/tilt/sway servos, IP cam, two airsoft cannon and suitable housing for all this proved how woefully inadequate my 645 mg's would be. I managed to find a screaming deal on four 5990tg's last week and upgraded the knee and hip extension joints. The ankle and hip rotation stayed the same.

I added servos for neck tilt, pan and sway, which when linked to accelerometer/gyro IMU, will allow me to run and gun. Still haven't purchased this bit and doubt I'll have time to implement it before June 12.

I scrapped the LM feet, as they were too small to support all the added weight up topside. I fabbed some longer and wider feet that have clearance to walk over any bb's scattered around. While I was at it, I figured with my increasing power demands, I could go to two 7.2V R/C packs I had lying around. No room to mount batteries anywhere, so I built some integrated battery holders into the new feet.

Finally, on to the head! I built a camera housing/gun mount out of .050" 2027 alum. I really like how this unit turned out and there's still room inside to mount voltage regulators for the cam/target board and the target board itself.

Still left to do:
1. Wire up power distribution and voltage regulators for all the assorted systems and twin batteries.

2. Wire up cannons and mount barrels securely. Build ammo storage.

3. Fine tune movement gaits and other sequences.

3. Physical on/off switches for safety.

4. Build and mount target sensors and connect Xbee sending unit.

5. Finish my VB piloting program which I haven't touched in a month due to frustration! :mad:

It's coming down to the wire, and all major hurdles are out of the way. Making daily progess and hope to see you in S.F inna couple weeks!

New pics here ----> (http://picasaweb.google.com/mramirezjr7/CLYDE?feat=directlink)http://picasaweb.google.com/mramirezjr7/CLYDE?feat=directlink
Sorry for the poor quality, camera in my phone stinks.

darkback2
05-17-2009, 10:16 AM
First off...Awesome bot. I am really impressed with what I see you have done with the feet. Where did you get those...really cool. Did you make them yourself?

Also, I really like how your camera box looks like one of the walkers from starwars.


Keep us posted!

DB

gdubb2
05-17-2009, 11:32 AM
Nice work Manny, Bheka and I are looking foreward to meeting you and doing battle with Clyde..

See ya in San Fran
Gary

mannyr7
05-17-2009, 11:50 AM
Thanks for the kind words. DB, I made those feet myself. The bottom section is zinc-coated steel channel. The battery holder section is .050 aluminum, bent by my buddy Milt. He also bent the camera box to my specs. Then I drilled everything with 1/2" holes to lighten it. The camera box will get some 1/4" channels milled out later this week. Video to be posted as soon as I get him wired up.

jes1510
06-08-2009, 11:39 AM
Shameless bump for recent video!

mannyr7
06-10-2009, 03:54 AM
I have two 7.2V 1200mAh NiCad packs. One is connected to VS1 directly feeding 4 Hitec HSR5990TG servos. The other is run into a MPI 6V regulator which is bypassed at <6.3V incoming,from here into VS2 running 5 Hitec HSC645MG servos. VS1 and VS2 are electrically isolated via removal of jumpers. VL is also on its own fresh 9V alkaline supply and also unjumpered. I am controlling the SSC-32 with bluesmIRf modem which runs fine and stays connected to my laptop and the Visual Sequencer at all times, which is verified by the SSC-32 blinking when sent commands.

Problem is, I can hold a pose or run a sequence ok very shortly, lets say 3-5min. Then suddenly, either VS1 or VS2 will dump and that bank of servos will go limp. Upon checking the packs, VS1 pack reads 6.4V and VS2 reads 5.6V

I was expecting more running time than this. Am I crossing a minumum threshold to cause this? I am not sure if moving all servos at once could be causing this either. Could I be pulling too many amps? I have no idea how to check this. I still have a 5v 1A camera and two 3.6V 1.5A motors to add to this mix. I have tried swapping these old packs for some brand new 7.2 NiMH 3600mAh packs to no avail. One pack even read 7.4V after going slack!

Many people have built LM Scouts using 12 5990tgs before, so where am I going wrong? Please help, my participation in RoboGames is riding on this!

http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/picture.php?albumid=51&pictureid=260
http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/picture.php?albumid=51&pictureid=259

jes1510
06-10-2009, 09:36 AM
Are any of the servos getting hot? You should check your current with an Ammeter. I believe the 5990 servos can pull 5A each stalled. I'm not sure about the 645's. I think you are pulling a heck of a lot more current than you are expecting.

You could conceivably be pulling 20A with the servos. 1200mA / 20 A = .06 = 3.6 minutes battery life. Plus NiCAD's suck. Are you competing this weekend? Are those standard size RC batteries?

darkback2
06-10-2009, 10:51 AM
OK...two things that I have heared of people doing, but am not doing currently, though plan to implement in the future.

1) Run a voltage divider off of your battery. Even if it is just connected to an empty terminal block, you can use that to check the status of your batteries. That way you won't get caught out starting a match with a dead battery.

2) Run an amp meter between your battteries and your servos. that way you can check the current draw at different points along the way. I am currently running NiCads, and yes...they stink...long recharge times / short battery life. I think I am running the higher capacity NiMh RC car batteries about 4 times the capacity of what you are running...Both of my bots (quads) get about 15 minutes run time. I think you may find that you are just drawing too much current.

DB

DresnerRobotics
06-10-2009, 11:05 AM
Your two NiMH batteries should be in parallel, not isolated. I don't see a point in isolating them. The faster you're discharging your batteries, the less effective they will be, so double those batteries up in parallel to share that discharge load.

Ditch the NiCad entirely, I'm going to inject a strong opinion here but there is zero point in using NiCads when NiMH are so cheap and widely available. Weight to power is much lower so you're just cripping your robot.

mannyr7
06-10-2009, 03:15 PM
Weight to power is much lower so you're just cripping your robot.
I keep hearing that, but these NiMH packs(Tenergy 7.2V SC3600 Titanium) are almost twice the weight of my my old 7.2V sub-c Nicads. So, the nicads are going in recycle bin, I'm going to heavier wire straight from the pack to my controller, eliminating on/off switches and unneccessary connectors, and speading the load parallel to the controller. BTW, the purpose was to provide the 645's with 6v regulated, as that is their max voltage. According to Jim at Lynxmotion they can take 7.2V in short doses (3-5 min) Getting rid of the regulator should unchoke the amp flow too, I think.

lnxfergy
06-10-2009, 03:46 PM
I keep hearing that, but these NiMH packs(Tenergy 7.2V SC3600 Titanium) are almost twice the weight of my my old 7.2V sub-c Nicads. So, the nicads are going in recycle bin, I'm going to heavier wire straight from the pack to my controller, eliminating on/off switches and unneccessary connectors, and speading the load parallel to the controller. BTW, the purpose was to provide the 645's with 6v regulated, as that is their max voltage. According to Jim at Lynxmotion they can take 7.2V in short doses (3-5 min) Getting rid of the regulator should unchoke the amp flow too, I think.

You said your old NiCD were 1200mAh... these are 3600... big difference, you're adding a lot of capacity, that's gonna weigh a bunch. A 1200mAh NiMH would weigh less than a 1200mAh niCD.

-Fergs

Adrenalynn
06-10-2009, 03:53 PM
You're getting 3x the power for 2x the weight? Seems like a reasonably good trade. But if you go with even denser LiPoly, you should double that again.

mannyr7
06-10-2009, 03:54 PM
Ok, running 1 new NiMH pack straight to the ssc-32, VS1=VS2. I saw better performance, the 645's took the extra voltage like champs. Still, after a couple minutes, (five max. I guess, wasn't counting) a lone knee servo (5990TG) stopped responding. Still no overheating from any servos, that's good! Shouldn't this pack be enough to run this mix of 9 servos for at least 15 minutes?

I see, apples to apples.
So, replacing my current setup for two 7.4 LiPo's is there any danger of the servos drawing two much current? I've generally heard negative for rough and tumble robotics use. What are the pitfalls in LiPo shopping?

Adrenalynn
06-10-2009, 04:03 PM
I'd say it depends a lot on load and architecture.

mannyr7
06-11-2009, 04:02 PM
I hooked the two 10 year old Nicad packs up with heavier gauge wire to VS1 and VS2 (1 and 2 jumpered together). One of my much heavier NiMH won't take a charge, that's why I resorted to the oldies. All switches were removed as well as connectors except for the Deans Plugs at the pack.

I offloaded the camera load to an enclosed 4xAA case with 2500 mAh NiMH cells. (When Clyde was just a simple BRAT, this is what he ran off of just fine.) Camera transmitted wirelessly for 25 minutes, good enough. Guns will run off of 4xAA NiMH's as well.

I had a solid run of around ten minutes before the pack supplying power to the 5990's dumped at 2.3V. Clyde was walking and balancing on one leg the whole time! (ankle servo is a 645MG) No servo overheating at all, even pushing them at 7.2V. Nice tip from Jim at LM!

Oh, and the lame servo issue... it helps if it's enabled in your .cfg file!! So, its off to buy a pair of NiMH's. Video coming soon!

darkback2
06-15-2009, 10:12 PM
Here is a pick of your bot!
http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/gallery/files/1/4/9/9/dsc_8673.jpg

lnxfergy
06-16-2009, 12:00 AM
Manny, you wouldn't happen to have photos of the gun/hopper setup as it was being assembled, would you? Those seriously are the coolest hoppers, I'm just wondering how they mate up with the guns...

-Fergs

mannyr7
06-16-2009, 04:02 AM
Yup, sure do. I took a couple pics just in case somebody asked.

1. I completely sanded all the ridge lines off the sides and top of the guns using a belt sander and cleaned up with a scotch-brite pad.
2. Scrounge around or ask your local machine shop for a couple plastic containers that 1" diameter endmills come in.
3. I just eyeballed the angle that wasn't too extreme but would still allow the bb's to flow with about 33degrees elevation. Then, put them to the belt sander.
4. I sanded away the corner of the hopper until it was about 1/2" longer than the opening to the breech of the gun. About 2 1/4" total.
5. Using Testors Model Master cement for ABS and polystyrene, I glued up a couple 1 inch long pieces of Evergreen 1/4" square plastic tubing. When this is dry, test fit your hopper to the gun and glue the square tubing support at the rear. Do not glue the hopper yet. The Testors cement won't bond to it anyway.
6. I found an industrial contact adhesive that bonds damn near any material, is strong but leaves a flexible not brittle joint. Look for "Welder" by Homax. Comes in a red tube with bold white writing. You can find it at Walmart or Autozone. Apply a liberal amount of Welder around the hopper opening, being careful not to get any in the breech opening. Also glue the rear of the the hopper to your square support and the reinforce the support to the gun body.
7. Welder takes a few minutes to start setting, so be prepared to hold the hopper in place for about 5 minutes. Wait overnight for this to bond properly.
8. Cut some side-plates to taste out of .040" styrene sheet to cover up our messy but solid bond. Glue your side-plates to the gun body using the Testors cement.
9. Spray paint the whole assembly flat black. Be careful not to paint the gun's motor shaft.

http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/gallery/files/2/8/4/0/cimg3802.jpghttp://forums.trossenrobotics.com/gallery/files/2/8/4/0/cimg3803.jpg
http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=1402&catid=member&imageuser=2840http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=1401&catid=member&imageuser=2840

gdubb2
06-16-2009, 10:32 AM
Good job Manny, I love those. It was great to meet you finally. Sorry you had all the problems though.

See ya next year.
Gary

lnxfergy
06-16-2009, 12:01 PM
Excellent pics and description man! Thanks!

-Fergs

mannyr7
06-16-2009, 02:17 PM
CLYDE gets armor next year!
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_RBehtyGR3tY/SbiZLxwu2PI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/XZYefGU6Ncs/s720/Picture%20008.jpg

ScuD
06-16-2009, 04:15 PM
:robotsurprised::eek::robotsurprised:... _O_

Period.

Adrenalynn
06-16-2009, 05:51 PM
That'll rock. Should protect the board too. ;)

Maybe even make it lighter. I'd think weight had to be a "lesson learned" for most contenders.

mannyr7
06-17-2009, 11:46 AM
Also, I really like how your camera box looks like one of the walkers from starwars.


Keep us posted!

DB

Funny, I thought about cutting a hole in the top and putting a Chewbacca figure sticking out.:tongue:

mannyr7
07-01-2009, 06:12 PM
Hi folks. I've tackled my power issues and got CLYDE up and running. Well, walking anyway. I created a tutorial http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/tutorials/mod-hack-132/control-your-robot-with-an-iphone-3263/ for controlling your bot via I-phone.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMme0JECCDg

As always, comments welcome!

-Manny

nagmier
07-01-2009, 06:52 PM
Awesome job controlling him via iphone I may just have to look into that +rep nice job!

DresnerRobotics
07-01-2009, 07:27 PM
Absolutely amazing work!

+ Rep from me, can't wait to see him in action next year!

jes1510
07-01-2009, 11:39 PM
Nice!

Noodle
07-02-2009, 01:09 AM
Awesome work, it's funny watching it flail around trying to stand up on the concrete, perhaps "fall over onto opponent" could be a new move, or "barrel roll" perhaps?

mannyr7
08-03-2009, 03:45 AM
Hello all. I have reconfigured CLYDE for Lynxmotion's Robot Contest and shot some new video. The deadline has arrived and voting starts today. Check out my entry, watch the new video, and if you are a LM forum member and like my mech-style bot, I would appreciate your vote. Thanks! --Manny.

http://www.youtube.com/v/gFJ3l-vCJPk&hl=en_US&fs=1


Here's the link to the contest page. http://www.lynxmotion.net/viewtopic.php?t=5196

nagmier
08-03-2009, 04:27 AM
looks like Clyde is going to be prepared for robogames 2010! Lookin' good Manny!

jes1510
08-03-2009, 10:53 AM
Nice work man! Are you not concerned about the width of the guns? They look wide enough that you might shoot around a target. I'm really happy to see this one walking!

mannyr7
08-03-2009, 03:58 PM
Thanks for the kind words, guys. Jes, I thought they look too far out as well, and am going to cut the tubing down to 1" long. They are currently 2.5" long. I also shortened the barrels today to half the length in the video.

gdubb2
08-03-2009, 04:10 PM
Looking good Manny..
Gary

lnxfergy
08-03-2009, 05:29 PM
Are those guns without hoppers right now? I'm just wondering if these are another set of guns, or if you actually found an even better hopper solution than the end-mill holders?

-Fergs

mannyr7
08-03-2009, 05:49 PM
Are those guns without hoppers right now? I'm just wondering if these are another set of guns, or if you actually found an even better hopper solution than the end-mill holders?

-Fergs

No, this is a new set of guns. No hoppers mounted yet. I'm still tossing around some ideas for the hopper design. For CLYDE v.4, I want to go with a classic mech look all the way.

mannyr7
09-16-2009, 12:28 AM
New video of Pan and Tilt working. PS2 2.4Ghz wireless contoller to Lynxmotion BotBoard II and Basic Atom Pro module. I will not be using the 2.4Ghz contoller for mech warfare. This is just to test the code.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAyZ_eL7bYw

Quantum
09-16-2009, 12:37 AM
Is the 2.4Ghz not good enough for mech warefare?

lnxfergy
09-16-2009, 12:38 AM
Is the 2.4Ghz not good enough for mech warefare?

As I understand it, there are only 4 channels on a PS2 controller. That could definitely be a problem onsite.

-Fergs

Quantum
09-16-2009, 12:49 AM
Its not like a regular narrow band reciever like the old rc recievers that operateon 27Mhz to 72Mhz. These require there own channel. These guys should find there own channel and work pretty good. Mhz to Ghz lots of extra channels. i think it would work pretty good. Its not limited to 4 channels lots more than that.

Adrenalynn
09-16-2009, 03:02 AM
Actually, I think you'll find that they're carried on two possible carrier channels - 2.426 GHz and 2.456 GHz. I believe you'll further find that those two channels can each be subdivided once each (baseband encoded), providing simultaneous use of four controllers using a Motorola patented AM Modulation scheme, Manchester coded over a 5mbit/sec channel.

If that's not the case, they have some splainin' to do to the FCC and various other regulatory commissions. They'll all need to be recalled under Part 15, Sec 249...

Quantum
09-16-2009, 12:09 PM
I wasnt to clear on my post. I meant the GHz RC controllers. These should work for controlling the bot. Right?

lnxfergy
09-16-2009, 12:30 PM
I wasnt to clear on my post. I meant the GHz RC controllers. These should work for controlling the bot. Right?

The thing to look into about RC controllers is what the regs are as far as the battle bots. They used to be very touchy (and rightfully so) about the frequency clips for 75mhz. I'm not sure what sort of regulations they have regarding 2.4Ghz (ala Spektrum) units.

-Fergs

Adrenalynn
09-16-2009, 07:15 PM
Dave stops in now and again and is the ultimate resource on this, but I remember having seen the big clip board. So they'd need to be checked in and out, waaaay tooooo close to the big combat arena to have wayward stray Spektrum chips running around unregulated. That kinda thing is how people get maimed and killed...

mannyr7
09-26-2009, 04:09 AM
Window frame or no?

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_RBehtyGR3tY/Sr3ZSZIo0gI/AAAAAAAAAns/G3HO7Ad5WnA/s800/Capture2.jpg

Adrenalynn
09-26-2009, 05:23 AM
I *love* the frame! Awesome idea!

bigderhak
09-26-2009, 10:15 AM
I dig the Frame :D

mannyr7
09-26-2009, 04:40 PM
Cool, I'll keep it in and make it look a lil nicer.

mannyr7
01-30-2010, 10:08 PM
Legs complete, working on torso now...more tomorrow!

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_RBehtyGR3tY/S2UBURs3M3I/AAAAAAAAAy8/XH0DRKIIzwc/s800/CIMG4738.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_RBehtyGR3tY/S2UBU-8PCnI/AAAAAAAAAzA/_YSOEBXV9WU/s800/CIMG4742.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_RBehtyGR3tY/S2UBVJw2VYI/AAAAAAAAAzE/jNRVuVRGBYs/s800/CIMG4743.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_RBehtyGR3tY/S2UBVzU66KI/AAAAAAAAAzI/RBhDfXHH-Po/s800/CIMG4744.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_RBehtyGR3tY/S2UBWStKqpI/AAAAAAAAAzM/UPT4IQV87AM/s800/CIMG4745.JPG

gdubb2
01-30-2010, 10:21 PM
OK Manny,

Where did ya put the SSC-32.. We don't need a repeat...

Looking Good
Gary

mannyr7
01-30-2010, 10:31 PM
I'm just gonna drag it behind me on the ground! j/k. :rolleyes:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpbIXU0D3sU

gdubb2
01-30-2010, 10:35 PM
Love it.. Now that's an improvement...Bwaaahaahaaa

innerbreed
01-31-2010, 03:30 AM
loving the new feet. they look really cool. a bit of black paint wouldn't go a miss. or even better chrome spray paint over the whole thing.

not sure dragging the SSC around is a good idea. reminds me of last friday night dragging my brains about town. :happy:

you could always use a mech cockpit overlay?
http://www.hyperaviator.com/Battletech/pics/mechcockpit.jpg
and a bit of photoshop.

mannyr7
02-07-2010, 01:57 AM
Head is coming along. There is a HS-645mg for pan in there and is the main attachment point to the legs. Trendnet cam is in there and wired up, as well an SSC-32/BB2 in the rear section. Still need a gun hopper for the Defender. Finally, camo paintjob for the whole shebang. Haven't worked out any gaits yet, just the high kick for proof of concept. :tongue: Have to remount and align the servos to neutral and should have some video of movement tomorrow, hopefully. That cockpit window is just a cardstock form I made. It will be replaced by a vacuum-formed .020" clear PETG. Does anybody know of a service that will do one piece orders? Worst comes to worst, I'll make a vacuum-former myself.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_RBehtyGR3tY/S25uepZbSwI/AAAAAAAAA0Q/HdULo3xu3tI/s800/CIMG4746.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_RBehtyGR3tY/S25_VYzzyFI/AAAAAAAAA1Y/NhZXb9oui5Y/s800/CIMG4747.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_RBehtyGR3tY/S25_WhQ10WI/AAAAAAAAA1o/Eh3hq3X84IM/s800/CIMG4749.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_RBehtyGR3tY/S26di79Y7WI/AAAAAAAAA2E/AIAxE59cA8I/s800/CIMG4766.JPG

jes1510
02-07-2010, 01:30 PM
Jeeeze that thing is beautiful! I love your attention to detail with the canopy. How well is it walking now?

edit: Are you using 645's for all servos?

mannyr7
02-07-2010, 02:17 PM
645's in the ankle and hip joint. 5990's in the knee and thigh.

rebel
02-08-2010, 11:59 AM
Looking good, should turn out very nice :P

mannyr7
04-20-2010, 08:25 PM
Some new video posted. Nothin' like waiting till the last minute, right? :happy:

http://www.youtube.com/user/mramirezjr7#p/a/u/1/Sar66BmwauI


http://www.youtube.com/user/mramirezjr7#p/a/u/0/kkhgWuK9M64




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkhgWuK9M64

darkback2
04-20-2010, 10:27 PM
Great looking mech...can't wait to see it in person.

DB

mannyr7
04-21-2010, 01:10 AM
Made up the camera window tonight. Glued and zip-tied everything possible. I covered the bottom of the Trendnet power PCB with GB Liquid Electrical tape. Great stuff, and it dries fast too!

http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/gallery/files/2/8/4/0/imag0003.jpg

And isn't that cute? Yes, I was forced to work in the kids' bathroom, lol!

darkback2
04-21-2010, 08:13 AM
Is that a home made vacuum former? If so...sweet!

mannyr7
04-21-2010, 11:16 AM
Yup, sure is. I used a 9" cake pan and hand held heat gun to form my canopy window for the Trendnet camera to see through.