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View Full Version : [Contest Entry] T-1000



4mem8
09-07-2010, 02:36 AM
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/2455/l1720794am1.jpg
T-1Rise of the Machines




This is my second entry into the TRC contest, This robot is a hard one to build from scratch as there are very little photo's on the net, I have searched for about 5 months and only come up with about 9 good res pics. GWJax found a good pic for me as well [far right in pic]. There are a number of sites dedicated to the Terminator series, but not a lot on the T-1 so I think that I will be doing well to complete this robot. It will be similar to J5 in as much that it will have an ITX PC and solid state Hdd and vision, quite a few sensors will be included, but the main attraction will be the live twin firing gattling guns , These will be in the region of 10-13" long and will rotate at a pretty rapid rate, there will be a fair bit of timing to be done to get this right . The base and tracks are finished, Two sets of batteries will be housed in the track sections, [Penty of room in there] and the main batteries in the mid section. At this stage I have built the main body in MDF and balsa, this is the plug that will be used for the mold to cast the final item in either glass or carbon. The head will be carved out of molding clay that GW sent to me, and then molded in glass to form the head, this will house the sensors and camera. T-1 will have a total of 11 servos, 6 HR-5990 for the arms and gattling guns, 2 HR- 5990's for the raise and lower of the torso, A heavy duty 1/4 scale servo for the rotational base, and 2 for the pan/tilt head, 645's. Track will run of 12v system [ May reduce this to get a lower speed], 9.6 ITX and 7.2v servos. I have not decided on the targeting system for the gattling guns yet. I hope this robot will be ready for the next round of competitions, but, if it is not then it will have to go in the next round.




Difficulty: Very difficult
Estimated Time: Unknown at this time
Skills Required: Modeling, Metal work, soldering, Electronics,Engineering,co-ordination,Programming [argh], Weapons systems ,
Parts Required: Tracks, Lexan or Polycarb sheet, SES brackets, HRS 5990t servos, Fiber glass components, Cardboard, Balsa wood, MDF, Cyno glue, MDF sanding sealer, Duratek, Carbon cloth,Modeling clay,Electronic components,Hitec servo tester, 3 NiMh Batteries, ITX M/B, 60W P/S, Solid state Hdd,
Switches, LEDs, Two Gattling guns, Camera, communication system,2 12v 50:1 DC motors,Rotational base bearing[ local machine shop], 2 1/4 scale servos, Documentation of project,
Tools Required: Drill press, Lathe, scaling dividers, X-acto knife, drills, taps, pens, curved protractors, Straight edge, Bandsaw, Fret saw, Dremel, Fiber glassing tools, cordless drill, Allen keys, Small spanners, Pliers, Square,








http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/7964/87972696bx5.jpg

Nylon 1-15/16" bushings from lynxmotion, two joined together.


http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/7421/62472144oi7.jpg

Hex 1-15/16 nylon standoff's joined together.


http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/132/83513309nd5.jpg

Jig set up for hex rod to get correct length.


http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/7382/21630142cd3.jpg

Jig in use for cutting hex rod roughly to length.



http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/1016/93378427vr5.jpg

Next stage is to sand the edge of the hex rod to get it square.


http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/8290/37508264yp6.jpg



Nylon rod in jig cutting roughly to size.


http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/9263/60270940zk3.jpg

Trimming to the correct length.


http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/5325/25225063st7.jpg

Nylon tubes ready for the next stage. Lynxmotion part [ Here (http://www.lynxmotion.com/Category.aspx?CategoryID=43)]


http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/5381/12998690xf4.jpg

Hex rod ready for the next stage. Lynxmotion part [ Here (http://www.lynxmotion.com/Category.aspx?CategoryID=43) ]


http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/8632/10at9.jpg

Using a machine vice to hold 4/40 rod @ 25mm long, These will be used to join the hex rod together.


http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/8868/11wt6.jpg

Using a Dremel with a diamond cutting wheel to cut 4/40 threaded rod.


http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/5794/12om7.jpg


http://img366.imageshack.us/img366/836/13lk8.jpg

Black Polycarb 5mm sheet, These will be used for the track sides and base.


http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/9084/14bd7.jpg

Track sides, Two large holes are for the motors, medium holes are for bearings and smaller holes are for the nex rod to join the sides together.


http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/3179/15wi6.jpg

Track sides in vice for cleaning up.


http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/5191/16jh5.jpg

Lynxmotion Idler hub-13 [ Here (http://www.lynxmotion.com/Category.aspx?CategoryID=94)] for 3" [ 75mm] Tracks.


http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/1924/17ua6.jpg

Lynxmotion 75mm track link [ Here (http://www.lynxmotion.com/Product.aspx?productID=512&CategoryID=94) ]


http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/2655/18tp8.jpg

Lynxmotion 50:1 gearhead motors 12v [ Here (http://www.lynxmotion.com/Category.aspx?CategoryID=11) ] These are fitted to the polycarb sheet.


http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/7796/19uh4.jpg

Sabertooth 2 x 10 H-Bridge motor driver [ Here (http://www.lynxmotion.com/Product.aspx?productID=562&CategoryID=10)] This will be used for the Lynxmotion 50:1 motors.


http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/9570/20up7.jpg

Sprocket set SPRK-02 [ Here (http://www.lynxmotion.com/Product.aspx?productID=544&CategoryID=94) ] frpm Lynxmotion, AA batery for size comparison. you will need 8 of these.


http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/4204/21bj1.jpg

Close up of the Nylon tube, These are what the tracks glide on.


http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/6900/22dd6.jpg

Close up of 50:1 12v motor.


http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/580/23cg0.jpg

Close up of one set of sprockets with idler joining the two together.


http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/2937/24rq2.jpg

One side temporarly put together to show you the setup.


http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/1509/25uu9.jpg

As you can see with this clear polycarb set up, All the sprocket gears and rollers, The final set up will be black polycarb and there will also be a polycarb platform in the middle so that I can insert my battery pack either side.


http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/8419/26ua8.jpg

Another side view.


http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/2901/27od0.jpg

Ok, This is the start of the track construction process, Because I am using the 3" tracks there are no hex rods that Lynxmotion sell at present that are long enough, so I have used 1 1-15/16 rod and cut down another 1-15/16 hex rod and tapped with a 4/40 so as to join them together.


http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/5506/28cz7.jpg

Hex rod now joined together, you will need 8 of these.


http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/7013/29qw7.jpg

Joining the polycarb sides together. I used 5/8 x 3mm cap bolts.


http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/7784/30gv7.jpg

End view showing the nylon tube inserted over the hex rod.




http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/9909/31yl5.jpg

Polycarb 5mm sheet for track sides.


http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/2403/32oh5.jpg

This part is the platform between the track sides for the batteries.


http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/2987/33me6.jpg

The shaft on the left side needs to be cut off for the modification for the 3" track system.


http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/8761/34dp1.jpg

Cutting process started.


http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/7011/35ba9.jpg

Universal Hub-02 [ Here (http://www.lynxmotion.com/Product.aspx?productID=114&CategoryID=94)] has two small protrusions either side of the flange, One side needs to be sanded flat [Or turned on a lathe] for the modification.


http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/1970/37lo3.jpg

Left shaft cut off.
Because there are no pre made parts for the 3" track system you have to modify the existing Idler hub, I had to cut of one end as seen in the pic.


http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/6363/36ld4.jpg

Sanding the idler flush.


http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/3779/38jy0.jpg

Drilling out the existing holes so as to tap for 3mm thread.


http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/7936/39rd9.jpg

1 set of tracks temporarly put together, these track sides will be changed for polycarb black sides.


http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/492/42pa8.jpg

Tracks temporarly fitted.


http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/3315/44bn2.jpg

25mm x 25mm x 2mm alloy for the track base/sides.


http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/4013/45ox7.jpg

Base fitted to track sides.


http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/9233/46we3.jpg

Ok, These are the new Black polycarb track sides, these replace the clear sides i had before, also note the the sides are a different shape at the front and rear, these were modded after finding better pics of the real machine.


http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/2297/47fs2.jpg

These are the two battery plates that fit in-between the track sides.


http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/9057/48tb0.jpg

Hex standoff's and battery plate installed.


http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/3488/49zc1.jpg

Nylon tube added to hex standoff's.


http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/814/51al7.jpg

Sprockets added to front and back.


http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/3950/50cw3.jpg

One track completed.


http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/3450/52ak5.jpg

As you can see the battery fits real neat into this area, This will be used for the servos and the other side will be used for the Pico ITX.


http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/6862/53ax3.jpg

One track completed.


http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/1249/54nq9.jpg

Base plate fitted to both track sides.


http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/1686/55sh4.jpg

Now to the interesting part, Making the plug for the fiber glass lower body molding. Above pic are two MDF [Medium Density Fiber Board] As you can see i have marked out the sides for fret sawing out, bottom one has been fret sawed. Next clean it up so you have a neat jig, this will be used as a template for a router.


http://img366.imageshack.us/img366/8858/62tu3.jpg

both MDF patterns made and ready for the router machining.



http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/6015/57cf7.jpg

Fret sawing out the polycarb sheet.


http://img397.imageshack.us/img397/7081/58fm2.jpg

Ready for the router.


http://img160.imageshack.us/img160/4180/59cr6.jpg

Polycarb marked out from the template and roughly cut out with a fretsaw.


http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/7987/60un2.jpg

Jig was bolted to the polycarb sheet and a router used, the straight cutter has a ball race at the bottom of the cutter, this in turn runs around the MDF pattern and the cutter machines the polycarb to a nice finish.



http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/2316/56id5.jpg

This is another jig for the base section of T-1, Section in the center will be removed, This is where the ballrace will be housed.


http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/9223/61uk0.jpg

Again using the router to get a nice clean hole.


http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/9596/63rx8.jpg

Ready for the next stage.


http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/738/64ti8.jpg

Make an outer ring out of MDF, This is for the raised area on top of the bearing platform.


http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/4772/66lq3.jpg

Outer ring glued to the bearing plate.


http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/3095/67in6.jpg

As you can see I have now glued the top bearing plate to the MDF sides, this whole jig will be used for the final plug to make the mold for the lower body section.


http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/8320/68yl0.jpg

Jig on top of the T-1 track base.


http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/453/69bh0.jpg

Starting to look like the real thing from the pic.


http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/9995/70ts7.jpg

Rear shot and tape measure for size comparison.


http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/4730/72gm4.jpg

We need a cardboard template of the front lower front section to see if this looks right draped over our jig.


http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/8383/71of9.jpg

A comparison against the pic top right.


http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/7848/75ud5.jpg

My balsa wood stack, this is used to cover the MDF jig.



http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/2604/74xf7.jpg

Using my fret saw to cut the maked out balsa from the cardboard template.



http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/3316/76pp0.jpg

First layer of 6mm balsa glued to jig with cyno glue.


http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/7292/77fq3.jpg

More balsa layers.


http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/8806/78cl0.jpg

Keep adding layers.


http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/7414/78ait9.jpg

Last layer at the bottom of the jig.


http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/6393/73ax9.jpg

Top section of pattern has been cut, this top section will be used for our second layer on top first layer forming a double skin and raised panel.


http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/1498/79lb3.jpg

This is the section we will use for our template to cut the next balsa section.


http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/7765/80ec0.jpg

Templates used to mark out our next cuts on our balsa, A pair of scaling dividers is essential in making these models for acuracy.


http://img238.imageshack.us/img238/5382/81rf1.jpg


Sections cut out for the next gluing session.


http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/5576/82zf1.jpg

Next, to glue on the jig.


http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/8670/83mb5.jpg

As you can see top layer has now been glued in place.


http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/7130/84sa8.jpg

Comparison photo just to see if I am on the right track, it is quite weird, the eye does not always pick up defects, but when you put a photo in the pic you can see any flaws you have made.


http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/1195/85dz1.jpg

Close up of lower body.


http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/2371/86ho6.jpg

Filling in on the underside of the lower body.


http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/8915/87ax4.jpg

Using car bog around the inner edge to form a radius.


http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/6017/88co7.jpg

Close up of bog on both inner and outer edges.


http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/893/89tm8.jpg

Rapidfilla used for the radius on the balsa, this is used because it is softer than balsa, when sanding we don't want to gouge out the balsa, so the filler will sand first.


http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/433/90tg9.jpg

Close up of filler.



http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/4065/91fw3.jpg

Underside showing filler for curved edges.


http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/4446/92pd5.jpg

Close up of filler and curved edges.


http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/5748/93dj6.jpg

Starting to take shape now, Alloy disc is the bearing plate for the top body. Also I still have to do some work on the lower front section.


http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/5720/94nc1.jpg

Closer view, Don't forget that this is only the plug for the fiber glass mold.



http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/7158/95xc5.jpg

Side view.


http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/3656/96jv8.jpg

Front view, Lower section has to have some cosmetics done.


http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/3212/97ul5.jpg

Real T-1 pic to show comparison, Also note lower body mods.


http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/5720/98mh7.jpg

Slight angle shot to give a better view.


http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/7427/99bv6.jpg

Close up of front section, also the rebates have been added in the opening.


http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/7425/100wz8.jpg

Close up of the front section.


http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/9466/101dt6.jpg

Marking out the upper body section, A pair of dividers is essential for this operation.


http://img392.imageshack.us/img392/192/102zc1.jpg

Cardboard template upper body section, checking to see from the pics if the shape is right.


http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/5272/103tv4.jpg

Rear view, looking good.


http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/4729/104fg0.jpg

MDF templates for the balsa skin as in the lower body section.


http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/9333/105zo3.jpg

First stages of the balsa layup, top section is where the head will go.


http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/7441/106ni4.jpg

Next section, Note the the lower horizontal cuts in the balsa, These are so it will bend and follow the contour of the jig.


http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/6247/107xa7.jpg

Starting to take shape.


http://img379.imageshack.us/img379/1495/108np4.jpg

This is the second to last bit to go on the bottom of the jig, I am putting a series of cuts horizontally so the balsa can bend around the jig.


http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/3166/109cs3.jpg

Note how easy it is to follow the contour of the jig when cuts are made.


http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/2678/110fz5.jpg

Last lower section to go on, cuts are now closer together for a tighter radius.


http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/944/111ow3.jpg

Upper body section balsa now glued in place ready for filling.


http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/631/112tl3.jpg

Comparing the two body sections.


http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/6601/113nu7.jpg

Upper body section now ready for the rear balsa laminates.


http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/8768/114hq5.jpg

Cardboard template for the rear head section,


http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/7338/115tj8.jpg

Side panels removes as this pattern now becomes the top raised panel section. a 6mm sheet will take the form from the top shoulder to the 2nd pen line above the tape. Once this is glued in place on top of what we have already done this becomes the faceted area on the sides.


http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/3002/116zb9.jpg

Rear section of the neck area, This was the hardest to do as I have no documentation on this part, but I think it is close.


http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/7805/117lu5.jpg

Upper body section temporarly in place to check how it looks.


http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/2404/118dn4.jpg

Starting to take shape now, This project is now getting exciting.


http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/2418/119zw9.jpg

Filler added, ready for sanding.


http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/2015/120np8.jpg

Upper body section now has it's second layer, this is used to reproduce the curved fairing, It is rough filled at this stage.



http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/9816/121it8.jpg

These sections are for the raised neck area which will be back filled for a radius.


http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/5969/122hh0.jpg

As you can see we now have all the neck sections glued in place.


http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/3576/123ob3.jpg

Lower radius now refilled to a larger radius and the neck area also filled.


http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/1174/124xv6.jpg

Close up of neck area.


http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/4459/125ic0.jpg

Rear neck area being built up with balsa wood.


http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/3298/126rq8.jpg

Rear side angle shot showing the complex curve.


http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/4158/128he4.jpg

Profile curves for the radius back filling, Note the beveled front edge, Critical for a smooth finish.


http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/3492/127lm6.jpg

Rear has now been radiused.



http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/450/129ul3.jpg

Starting to take shape now.


http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/6753/130ix9.jpg

Take away the MDF supports and you can see that it is getting close to the required shape.


http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/4237/131nu6.jpg

Front/side view.


http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/4135/132mh4.jpg

Fitting the bottom in place.


http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/1781/133fn1.jpg

This is the area where the rotational bearing will go. Has to have a 10mm spacer under the alloy ring.


http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/5371/134pt7.jpg

Other half of the rotational bearing plate on the main body. This area will be fiber glass or carbon when cast.



http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/1082/135jp3.jpg

10mm balsa spacer, this will be cast into the fiber glass mold


http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/3343/136ww4.jpg

Alloy bearing plate on top of spacer..


http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/9712/137co9.jpg

Disc on the end is for the spring system.


http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/1369/138iv9.jpg

Another angle of the disc.

Seeing that we are getting close to the molding process here is a list of items that we require to make the plugs and molds for the two main bodies.

Products that will be used are:
[1] Polyester resin for the mold
[2] Fiber glass tissue: First lay up after the gelcoat.
[3] 200g chopped strand matt: Second lay up after the tissue.
[4] 400g chopped strand matt: Third lay up after the 200g Matt.
[5] Release wax: used to polish the mold and prior to laying up.
[6] Release agent: PVA based liquid so glass does not stick to mold.
[7] Gelcoat: Used in the first coat in the lay up.
[8] Plastiscine: filling in gaps when making the box to hold the mold.
[9] MDF fiber board: Making jigs to hold the plug.
[10] Polyester thinners or acetone: Washing brushes and thinning.
[11] Duratek: Used for spraying into the mold then lay up, to get a smooth gray finish, Also used for the final finish on plugs.



http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/479/139ze1.jpg

Upper and lower body plugs have now been primed with a sandable laquer filler.


http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/7859/140gl4.jpg

MDF box for holding the upper body shell, The upper body is placed on it's side in the box.


http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/2682/141xf6.jpg

These MDF supports will fit around the upper body shell.


http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/1364/143kd3.jpg

Upper body plug in the box ready for the MDF supports.


http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/9538/144mr8.jpg

Notice that the MDF supports are as close as you can get them against the body, These will support the 3mm mdf which will be contured against the body plug, This is to form a platform to which the fiber glass will be laid on to form a flange.


http://img397.imageshack.us/img397/6947/145ti7.jpg

Bottom view of upper body plug.


http://img397.imageshack.us/img397/5430/146wu5.jpg

Larger MDF box for the lower body plug. The same process will occour as for the upper body plug.


http://img379.imageshack.us/img379/8479/147qp2.jpg

Lower body plug, with supports ready for the 3mm MDF platform.











This is all I have to date, more pics when i have done some more work, This project could take up to another two months or more as there is a lot of work ahead yet to be done.
I am back after 12 months of this project, will take a week or so to get organized again from where i left off guys so bare with me. ty.

elios
09-07-2010, 02:42 AM
aaannddd HES BACK!!!

ohai :)

When can we have a good yarn about robotics again??? :) :)

Good to hear your still alive

p.s you should put a rotate on the head too and lasers :P

4mem8
09-07-2010, 02:45 AM
Lol Elios, we will see about the lasers. and it will have a rotating head.

animeunplugged
09-07-2010, 11:12 AM
I love it!!! Next you should make a mini terminator!

4mem8
09-08-2010, 02:00 PM
Ty animeunplugged appreciated. hope i can get more done to it in the next few weeks.

D_zeno
10-07-2010, 05:21 AM
Awesome, I love it.
I wanna se more, more, more mooooooooooooooooooooooorrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrreeeeee eeeeeeeeeeeeeeee,
(saying it faster and faster) more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more, more.:D

4mem8
04-17-2011, 05:06 AM
Been a long time guys but im back and onto it again, i wont go into the reasons why to boring lol, but expect some progress in the next few weeks :-)

Orac
04-17-2011, 11:07 AM
Great news, been eagerly awaiting some progress on this one :)

4mem8
04-18-2011, 12:52 AM
lol Orac, i know a few ppl have been waiting on this one, it will be remote controlled to start with then a mini itx based pc will replace the rc.