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View Full Version : 2012 MWScore FSR Target Panel Build Tutorial & Info



DresnerRobotics
04-08-2012, 07:39 PM
Going to break this into two main sections: Full sized and Half Size FSR Target Panels. I recommend reading all of this first (both sections) before attempting anything.

Please refer to Section VII of the Ruleset thread (http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/showthread.php?4131-Mech-Warfare-2011-Draft-Rules) for mounting guidelines. Make sure you route your target panel cables away from sources of EMF (gun motors are a notorious culprit). Also, having your target panels mounted too closely to your guns can cause problem. Make sure you test firing and running around with your scoring system mounted to make sure you won't have problems at the competition.

Ensure all cables and target panels are securely fastened, target panels falling off will count as 1 point of damage. If a cable falls out you'll start taking damage very quickly due to it being an open collector. I recommend using a heavy duty velcro or even 3M Dual Lock/Radio Shack Super Lock velcro (be careful when using this stuff if you need to remove a target panel, it has a LOT of grip).

Full Size FSR Target Panels

1) Here are the parts for a Full Size Panel. Learn them, love them. The black ABS is your back plate, the clear lexan is the front plate that protects the FSRs. FSRs go in between the black ABS and clear lexan plates. The PCB attachs to the back plate. But don't start building yet! Let's go over everything step by step.
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2) Prepare the lexan plates by peeling off the plastic protective film. Set these lexans plates aside for later.
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3) If you have back plates that have a textured side, the FSRs are mounted on the smooth side.
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4) First we need to mount the FSRs to the black ABS back plates. Peel them ONE AT A TIME.
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5) Very carefully align the first FSR. Use the edges of the back plate to line it up correctly. Please be very careful during this, you do not want to misalign the FSRs and have them hanging off the edge/too far in from the edge. Once you stick these on, they do NOT come off, so you only have one shot.
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6) Your first FSR should look like this.
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7) Peel & prepare the second FSR. Align this with the top edge (in this pic) of the back plate, and the center axis right up against the edge of the first (already mounted) FSR.
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8) It should look like this if done correctly. If it doesn't look like this, cry. You've disappointed your ancestors.
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9) Carefully align the 3rd FSR. Again, make sure its snug up against the adjacent FSR, and the bottom (in this pic) edge of the back plate.
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10) Carefully align the 4th FSR. Make sure its snug up against the adjacent FSRs.
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11) These be the parts for your FSR PCB. Word.
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12) Install your components as shown. Note, resistors may be tan or blue, 4.7k-5.1k resistance. Solder the components.
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13) Apply double sided sticky tape (not included, you cheap bastards). Make sure you use some high-strength stuff. DO NOT ATTACH THE PCB YET.
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14) Without actually attaching the PCB, carefully insert all 4 FSR leads into the PCB as shown. Take your time with this, and be gentle.
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15) Again, before attaching the PCB to the back plate, carefully solder the FSR leads to the PCB. Use low temperatures (375F) and do not hold the iron on any connection for more than 3 seconds. You will melt the FSR connections if you get too heavy handed.
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16) Very carefully bend the connections flat. CAREFUL. Be a gentle lover.
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17) Attach the PCB to the back plate with steady applied pressure.
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18) Voila!
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19) Line up the lexan plate.
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20) Use tape (electrical is what I use) of your choice to attach the lexan plate, along the edge and around to the back plate.
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21) Attach velcro to the PCB in preparation for mounting.
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22) Look! Cable! Ready! I highly recommend putting a dab of glue on header/cable connection here to make sure it doesn't wiggle loose. You can remove the buckle from the cable if you like. The side that plugs into the transponder needs to be unbuckled.

Please note S, V, G.
S = Yellow/White, V = Red, G = Black.
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Half Size (Split-Option) FSR Target Panels

NOTE: These instructions are for Half-Size FSR Target Panels that are used for the 'split option'. This method utilizes a single PCB that is split in two, and a tether between the two half-size panels, which are then connected to the MWScore Transponder using a single cable.

If you have questions, ask. Again, read everything before proceeding, if you're building a biped make sure you understand the difference.

1) Here are the parts for a Half Size Panel. Learn them, love them. The black ABS is your back plate, the clear lexan is the front plate that protects the FSRs. FSRs go in between the black ABS and clear lexan plates. The PCB attachs to the back plate. But don't start building yet! Let's go over everything step by step.
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2) Use a ruler to score the PCB, several times. You don't need to press hard, just apply firm pressure and score it 5-6 times. You should be able to line it up to the edge of a table and snap it with your hands. I recommend sanding the scored edge so it doesn't get fiberglass fibers everywhere.
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2) Prepare the lexan plates by peeling off the plastic protective film. Set these lexans plates aside for later.
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3) If you have back plates that have a textured side, the FSRs are mounted on the smooth side.
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4) First we need to mount the FSRs to the black ABS back plates. Peel them ONE AT A TIME.
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5) Very carefully align the first FSR. Use the edges of the back plate to line it up correctly. Please be very careful during this, you do not want to misalign the FSRs and have them hanging off the edge/too far in from the edge. Once you stick these on, they do NOT come off, so you only have one shot.
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6) Align and mount the 2nd FSR.
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7) Place the components as follows.
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8) Solder them.
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9) Apply double sided sticky tape (not included, you cheap bastards). Make sure you use some high-strength stuff. DO NOT ATTACH THE PCB YET.
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10) Without actually attaching the PCB, carefully insert 2 FSR leads into the PCB as shown. Take your time with this, and be gentle. Repeat for the other side.
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11) Again, before attaching the PCB to the back plate, carefully solder the FSR leads to the PCB. Use low temperatures (375F) and do not hold the iron on any connection for more than 3 seconds. You will melt the FSR connections if you get too heavy handed.
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12) Very carefully bend the connections flat. CAREFUL. Be a gentle lover.
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13) Attach the PCB to the back plate with steady applied pressure.
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14) Attach the lexan plate to the front using the same taping method described in the last section.
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15) Velcro, do it.
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16) This is how the cabling works for the split-option Half-Size FSR Target Panel set. You can shorten the tether cable between the two panels as much as you need. I highly recommend putting a dab of glue on header/cable connection here to make sure it doesn't wiggle loose. You can remove the buckle from the cable if you like. The side that plugs into the transponder needs to be unbuckled.

Please note S, V, G.
S = Yellow/White, V = Red, G = Black.
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MWScore Transponder Pinout

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We do not recommend powering these directly from an 11.1v (12.6v max) 3S Lipo. They can be powered directly off of a 5v pin from the arbotix without issue however.

Please note: If you ordered Xbees you will need to program them appropriately. Each one of you has a unique ID # (it's written on your MWScore transponder), this is important when setting up your Xbees.

Xbee info:

ATBD = 5 (38400bps)
ATID = 6200
MY = 6200 + TRANSPONDER_ID_NUMBER (written on the bottom of each transponder)
DL = 6201
CH = c

If you don't have a method of programming your Xbees, bring them to Robogames and we'll get you programmed before your qualification round. Make sure to get this done early, it's your responsibility.

Wiring examples:
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kamondelious
04-16-2012, 10:23 PM
I played with reading the hit information from my Arbotix over the weekend and here's the gist of the code to do it.


void setup( )
{
Serial.begin( 38400 );
pinMode( 0, OUTPUT );
delay( 250 );


pinMode( A1, INPUT );
delay( 250 );
}


void loop()
{
unsigned long duration;


duration = pulseIn( A1, LOW, 300000 );
if( duration > 0 ) {
if( duration < 50000 ) {
Serial.println( "Hit panel 1" );
} else if( duration < 100000 ) {
Serial.println( "Hit panel 2" );
} else if( duration < 150000 ) {
Serial.println( "Hit panel 3" );
} else if( duration < 200000 ) {
Serial.println( "Hit panel 4" );
}
}
}

Cheers!

:D

byi
04-17-2012, 03:51 PM
Thanks for posting that. Saves me a bit of time figuring it out myself... if I manage to get things running smoothly enough to add things like that.

byi
07-11-2012, 10:59 PM
I already posted this in the ordering thread. Sorry to repost, but not having an answer to this is really holding up my work.

I've given up on my current set of target panels. After tweaking them continually to make them mount better, they are looking pretty shabby. I plan to switch to placing my pcbs remotely and using female header fsrs. However, my pcbs and panels are not in great shape. They are usable with some maintenance, but replacement would be a much better option. Any way I could get 4 panels and 4 pcbs? If not, I can easily make my own circuits to replace the pcbs and make my own panels. Would that be legal? Just checking. Thanks.

DresnerRobotics
07-17-2012, 12:37 PM
I already posted this in the ordering thread. Sorry to repost, but not having an answer to this is really holding up my work.

I've given up on my current set of target panels. After tweaking them continually to make them mount better, they are looking pretty shabby. I plan to switch to placing my pcbs remotely and using female header fsrs. However, my pcbs and panels are not in great shape. They are usable with some maintenance, but replacement would be a much better option. Any way I could get 4 panels and 4 pcbs? If not, I can easily make my own circuits to replace the pcbs and make my own panels. Would that be legal? Just checking. Thanks.

You must build these exactly as specified. I can't have people with variations on the scoring system, it all has to be exactly as specified.

The reason I've strayed away from female FSRs is because I don't want the chance of the individual FSRs coming apart. I don't want to trust people gluing them either.

I can most certainly send you PCBs and panels. What version did you have? In the future, feel free to email me with requests like this (I don't recall receiving an email from you). I've been very busy lately and thus haven't been on the phone much.

FSR panels are intended to be a consumable. I really only expect 2 years of use out of them. With that said, the newer versions are much more robust as they have the FSR ribbons protected now.

byi
07-21-2012, 03:46 PM
I got mine shortly before robogames 2011, so I think they are the newer ones. I'll email you immediately. Thanks for the help.

Gertlex
03-15-2013, 08:16 PM
My panels from last year were showing a bit of damage, but still worked. Decided to make them a bit more resistant to having the cables crushed, and used a chopped up pen barrel and hot glue to provide protection to the FSRs' ribbon wires.
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bloftin
04-03-2013, 02:11 PM
1) so in the instructions - should that be (375C) not 375F for soldering?

2) Also just an update on the transponder? - the directions on this forum mention 5v not 11.1, however on the transponder store page it says 7-24v voltage input which is what I remembered from 2012.

jwatte
04-03-2013, 10:20 PM
Actually, a typical melting temperature for Tin/Lead solder is 370 Farenheit, so I believe the suggestion is to go as low as you can while still getting melt.

bloftin
04-04-2013, 12:55 PM
Well, I started at 375F and could not getting anything to melt with my thinnest solder until around 600F. It did not seem to melt the wires or anything but I did not let it linger long.

jwatte
04-04-2013, 11:50 PM
Just because your solder station says 375F doesn't mean that the actual solder is 375F, which it needs to be to melt...

lumpen5
04-17-2013, 05:00 PM
Just received my target panels today. Yeah!
However, all three that I ordered have some weird white powder and brown gelatinous goo in a honeycomb pattern around the edges.
Has anyone else got a kit like this as well? I can wipe the white powder off (not sure what it is) but I cannot get the brown goo/stain off.

Anyone have any ideas?



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Gertlex
04-17-2013, 05:13 PM
Just received my target panels today. Yeah!
However, all three that I ordered have some weird white powder and brown gelatinous goo in a honeycomb pattern around the edges.
Has anyone else got a kit like this as well? I can wipe the white powder off (not sure what it is) but I cannot get the brown goo/stain off.

Anyone have any ideas?



That's from the laser cutting, and it's just a protective layer that peels off :)

jwatte
04-17-2013, 07:50 PM
The table that holds the plastic when it's being laser cut is honeycomb. Combustion products from the cutting (burning, really) will stick and make smoke-like patterns.
That's why the materials usually come with protective peelable plastic covers. You cut with the plastic covers on, and once you're ready to see the fully finished product, you peel it off. Much like a display protector on a new phone or laptop or whatever!
I bet the "gelatinous goo" is actually the protective cover, and if you peel it up in a corner, you can pull it off entirely, and will leave a reasonably good-looking surface below it.

lumpen5
04-17-2013, 10:28 PM
Sweet! Thanks for the Info guys! See you all on Friday! Off to start soldering.

gammaprysem
04-23-2013, 10:59 AM
*curls up in the corner holding tightly onto my mech sobbing* i-im so sorry, shhh shhh its gunna be ok my lil mech