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_ADAM_
05-06-2016, 09:21 PM
I was already thinking about starting a thread about this board, then KurtEck mentioned it another thread, so I figured I'd go ahead and do it.

My finger had been hovering over the Preorder button for a few days before I backed off the ledge. I may still get this board, but it would be my 2nd SBC. I've decided to start with a RPi3 as my first.

This is a hot little board. It has the new Atom x5-Z8350. Check out the specs. I think when it comes out it will easily have the best performance to power consumption ratio on the market. It outperforms the current Celerons and draws less power. And as is typical for Atoms, it runs fanless.

In terms of cons ... it doesn't have built-in WiFi or Bluetooth, which seems kind of ridiculous to me. There is supposedly a shield board coming out that adds both, but it's still a disappointment to me.

If I decide to do a ROS board next, I will strongly consider this board. Actually, it may be a good idea to pick one up during their run because I heard that Intel is canceling the Atoms after this generation.

Let me know what you all think about this board.

jwatte
05-06-2016, 10:55 PM
You can do ROS on the RPi3, too. And the RPi has the benefit of a directly-connected camera, which improves performance and reduces space/weight compared to USB cameras.
I think you'll go far with the RPi. Once you're actually at the limit of that, there's probably going to be an even nicer board out somewhere :-)

tician
05-06-2016, 11:04 PM
You can do ROS on the RPi3, too. And the RPi has the benefit of a directly-connected camera, which improves performance and reduces space/weight compared to USB cameras.
I think you'll go far with the RPi. Once you're actually at the limit of that, there's probably going to be an even nicer board out somewhere :-)

The UP has an x86-64 processor which is better supported by ROS (more packages already compiled by the farm). The UP also has a CSI port like the RPi's, although it looks like it may be limited to no better than 4MP cameras. Plus six USB2.0 ports, one USB3.0 OTG port, and a proper gigabit ethernet via PCIe.

KurtEck
05-07-2016, 08:31 AM
I agree with both Jwatte and Tician here,

As Jwatte mentioned you can do a lot with the RPI3 and there will always be new better shiny boards out there ;)

I ordered one of these as I am interested in trying one out and I am hoping that it will help me to continue to learn ROS as again hopefully I will be able to install standard x86-64 ROS packages including full desktop and be able to do things like RVIZ directly on it. I have had my eye out for something like a NUC, but smaller, less power needed, simple to power...

Per posting today, I believe they should start shipping next Friday :D

I became interested in them when I read that Intel will be selling them soon from their own store as part of a package which includes a Real Sense camera. I then found their site and decided to give one a try.

I agree with you _ADAM_ that it would be nice if it included Wifi/BT directly on the board. I have heard arguments both ways. For example on the Odroid forums, where some argued that they want to be able to choose which wifi they want and maybe what type and where to install the antennae. Others argued that they did not want these on their board as they will connect by wire... For me, I wish it was built in.

Recently I also looked at some other similar boards including:

The DFRobot LattePanda (http://www.dfrobot.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1404&search=lattepanda&description=true#.Vy3nUDXzNmM)- which is currently shipping, again quad core atom, they added an AtMega32U4 processor to add IO pins, you use Arduino to program this chip but not shield compatible... Looked interesting but I have typically avoided DFRobot.

UDOO has a kickstarter (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/udoo/udoo-x86-the-most-powerful-maker-board-ever/description)- for new board again Intel Quad core, plus Arduino 101. Looks like it will be Arduino shield compatible... But also looks pretty big.

jwatte
05-07-2016, 12:52 PM
If they're there, but you don't use them (or use some alternative that's USB connected,) they don't get in the way.
If they're not there, and you NEED to use the USB, then it takes up space (both port count and physical space.)
I think it's unconditionally better to have them on the board and have the option to use them, unless there's some terrible bug that causes them to gulp battery even when not in use or crash the kernel or something.

Also: I agree UP specs look good. The question for me is "are they better enough compared to RPi3 that it makes sense to recommend that to a learner, even though it's 4x the price?"
If you want real performance out of a SBC, I hear the new Jetsons are where it's at. (for another 4x increment in price :-)

KurtEck
05-07-2016, 03:39 PM
Jwatte,

I totally agree about the wifi/BT. The only other reason I heard people mention was something like in a secure environment, can not have wifi on it as it can be a point for hackers to gain access... But not sure why in those cases you can not simply turn that part of the board off...

I also agree that RPI3's are great thing to use for the price. As for 4x the price, probably closer to 2x the price:

I believe RPI3 is $40, plus you need a SD card for maybe $10 probably more: so about $50.

You can get a 2GB memory 16gb emmc version of up for: $99
I just happened to order the more expensive 4gb/64gb version, so I can potentially try multiple things like maybe dual boot...

_ADAM_
05-07-2016, 10:45 PM
These 14nm Cherry Trail Atom chips are legit tech. It's going to be viable for many years to come. The x5 CPU Mark score is 1708. The Braswell N3050 is 6W with a CPU Mark of only 925. Twice as fast, half the power, no fan.

And like Tician said, it's x86, which is a nice for non-Pi linux ecosystems.

Maybe they will make a another version of the UP with the somewhat faster x7 Atom and onboard WiFi and BT... :D

_ADAM_
06-13-2016, 02:12 PM
Kurt, did you ever get your UP? I thought they were supposed to ship in May, but it's mid-June and still available for pre-order.

LattePanda looks interesting too, and it's also 5V, which is nice. Why do you avoid DFRobot?

UP is a bit smaller and lighter, and has a faster Atom. LP has more memory and storage, plus the onboard ATmega if needed. LP has WiFi and Bluetooth, which is great, but adding dongles to the UP isn't a big deal.

I'm working on two robots, will probably go x86 on the second...

KurtEck
06-13-2016, 03:22 PM
Not yet, they have said there was an issue with the first batch of the mass produced boards and they rejected them. Sounds like should have all of the Kickstarter boards out probably in the next few days and the all of the preorders in the next few weeks...
Post from two days ago:

UP is in mass production from last two weeks and this production wil continue. We expect to fulfill all the orders in coming 3 weeks; afterwards the board will be on stock with 5 days of delivery time worldwide.
thanks again for your patience and for supporting UP
A post by them earlier today about some other boards who have already shipped, they have said:

We are aware that other projects already delivered their products (which may seems similar but they are very different on many aspects).
Most of them include the X5-Z8300 while the UP board as been upgraded in January with the latest X5-Z8350 and the I/O has been enhanced with an Altera CPLD to give you better performance and more flexibility for your embedded projects.


Why I have avoided DFRobot in the past. Several years ago, it felt like they were directly cloning products by a company (Lynxmotion), that I liked and supported. Example SSC-32. ... I don't have as strong a feeling anymore as Lynxmotion was sold and the new owner (Robotshop) also sells DFRobot...

KurtEck
08-19-2016, 05:48 PM
Quick updates:

My up board arrived today. Actually late yesterday to my mailbox in town.

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The picture is the Upboard on the right, with an Odroid C2 on the left. As you see they are pretty much the same size. The Up is now thicker as they have another heat sink below the main body.

Right now have hooked up to my tV and now have it dual booting Windows 10 and Ubuntu 16.04.

Will probably next install ROS Kinetic, while I play around with breakout board design for T3.6 board.

And follow up on DFRobot... Looks like Trossen is now selling their stuff...

KurtEck
09-30-2016, 02:32 PM
Now that the Teensy 3.5/6 Kickstarter and Beta are done, and my Kickstarter boards arrived yesterday, I thought I would give a quick update.

I now have the Up setup Dual booting with Windows 10 and Ubuntu 16.04.

I have ROS Kame installed on this board, and have my fork of Kevin's hexapod stack building. I also have my Raspberry PI code compiling as well.

This last week they released a kernel which now allows me access to the 40 pin External header, including the Serial port. So today I verified I could talk using it to one of my Teensy 3.2 boards at 4mbs. I tested this with my Teensy version of the Arbotix Pro code.

Soon I will be building an overkill version of a Teensy RPI hat to use as my Servo controller here using a Teensy 3.6. I have a first version of a board for this, I received back from digistump, that hopefully will have time to build soon:
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This picture also contains picture of a castilled (sp) like board for T3.5/6, which in theory I can solder on to bottom of one of these boards, and bring out all of the IO pins into double rows of pins....

Now back to playing with UP board. For example been wondering if it would make sense to have the Up talk to Teensy through SPI instead of Serial. The UP can do up to 25mhz here. But may then need to use an additional IO pin between the two for Teensy to tell UP that it has data available...

But right now still just figuring out what works...

jwatte
09-30-2016, 03:17 PM
I think the word you want is "castellated" (which I think comes from how castle walls have gaps on the top for archers to fire down on enemies from, throwing rocks, etc.)


But may then need to use an additional IO pin between the two for Teensy to tell UP that it has data available

If you need the slave to tell the master that there is data, and the master doesn't regularly poll the slave, then yes, you will need a line for interrupt, in addition to the chip-select line you also need for SPI. It really uses a bunch of wires for being "just" a serial bus :-)

KurtEck
09-30-2016, 03:38 PM
Thanks,

Yep - I meant to look up castellated :o

Sort of thinking out laud, about how much stuff do I want the Teensy to handle and what level of communications makes sense.

For example maybe it makes sense to go back to using USB, especially since I believe each USB port has a direct channel into the processor, so should work pretty well. Maybe should go RAW hid

They are having some issues with their USB3 driver, but hopefully they will solve that soon.

Right now just trying to figure out what things work or dont. Like can the UP properly connect to BNO055 IMU using I2C? The BNO055 uses clock stretching on I2C, which works on BBBK, but not RPI. It looked like it worked on ODroid. If it does, will probably have the main processor handle it. If not, then have Teensy...

KurtEck
10-10-2016, 11:38 AM
Quick updates: Will probably create new thread later.

Over the last couple of days, I assembled one of the Castellated boards, (Actually 2nd attempt). More details up at: https://forum.pjrc.com/threads/36797-Playing-around-with-RPIish-HAT-using-Teensy-3-5-or-3-6?p=117836&viewfull=1#post117836

Sort of a Pain in the... Not sure If I will actually use it for anything or not.
67076708

But then decide to finally assemble one of the new RPI(UP) hats. So yesterday I started to assemble it. Started off with most of the surface mount parts, plus VR and power connector, and tried that out first to make sure no smoke, when I plugged in the 12v wall wart...
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Then once I was sure of that I installed the Teensy and verified I could at least program it... Probably should have tested more before finishing the board, in case something terribly wrong, but... ;)

67106711

So now the testing begins!

jwatte
10-10-2016, 12:22 PM
Wow, 8 dxl connectors!
How thick are the traces from power to TTL bus for power?

KurtEck
10-10-2016, 02:40 PM
I think most are in the range of 60-80 mill on both sides of the board.

The 8 are for: 6 legs, plus maybe head which are switched and then one which is not switched, which I can use if I wish to have something on the BUSS that maybe does not shut off with the other servos... Like maybe one of the Trinket/Teensy sensor or Neopixel boards... Or can use to maybe plug in another BEC if needed to power something else. I am hoping I don't need it as I have a 6 amp DC/DC converter on board...

jwatte
10-10-2016, 03:22 PM
60 mil can only do like 5 Amps long term before heating up. (At 1 Oz)
For one socket, that's fine, but for 6 sockets, that might perhaps be limiting.
If it's run on both sides, it of course doubles the current.
When I do dynamixel slots these days, I use a ground polygon on one side and a hi-voltage polygon on the other side, to get "really wide" traces :-)
Also, the additional surface area means more heat dissipation, too.

KurtEck
10-10-2016, 04:34 PM
Thanks,

They are actually 80s on bottom and maybe a bit more on GND as it is in the copper pour. Will update to more if I am going to build another one. I think my sound setup is not working... Will debug some more. Although maybe hard as Sound chip under processor...

Maybe better off simply using Prop shield and jumper over to speaker.

So far Neopixel is working, Setp that can have two sets, or can set up to use Dotstar instead. I want to check out a few more things before I then try plugging it into the back of a processor board. Not sure if I will go straight to UP board or maybe use something a bit cheaper and easier to replace, like maybe Odroid C1 (Or RPI)...

KurtEck
10-10-2016, 04:46 PM
Also I thought I would mention, in the last Up email where it was talking ab the New York Maker Faire 2016, they mentioned:

UP2 (UP-square)

With a great deal of anticipation, the team showed the prototype of the next generation of UP to some media. A comprehensive specification will be released with the Kickstarter campaign at midnight of 31st October. Watch this space for UP2 (UP-square) !

KurtEck
10-12-2016, 12:25 PM
Looks like I will be making myself an updated version. As I mentioned should maybe have tested a few more things during the assembly.

Turns on I screwed up on the sound output. Missing a 20K resistor... When I try to do sound, nothing comes out, but feel speaker getting warm... Unfortunately the stuff is under the teensy, so can't fix this one. Will do a partial build of another board, with sound stuff, to patch to a teensy to make sure it works OK.

Then I can decide if I will build another one of this bunch with resistor soldered across, or maybe fabricate a new bunch with that fix, plus more copper around the power pins, with power on top, ground on bottom.

Someone also suggested on the Odroid forum to put in a polyfuse going to the power pins where I am back feeding host through pins 2, 4 on the header. Not sure what to limit it to? For C2, that I have tried it on they were saying the 2.? amps version, but my guess is for Xu4 or UP probably want 4 amps. So not sure how much this would help. The DC to DC converter can output up to 6 amps.

Now to build the sound test board.

KurtEck
11-01-2016, 09:40 AM
Thought I would mention, that they have announced a new Kickstarter for UP2 boards...

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/802007522/up-squared-the-first-maker-board-with-intel-apollo

Looks sort of interesting, but many of the improvements like multiple HDMI and Ethernet connections probably won't help on Robot...

Not sure if I will subscribe yet and if I do for what level...

KurtEck
12-23-2016, 06:15 PM
Thought I would mention that I did break down yesterday to support the UP Squared Kickstarter. My guess is they will be several months late, but...

I went with the Celeron Ultra starter kit... I thought about going for one of the Pentiums, but figured the Celeron probably has plenty of horsepower for some of the robots.

Also as a side note: Also broke down and now have an RPI3 as I get the impression more people around here may be using them!

jwatte
12-23-2016, 06:35 PM
My learnings have been that there are about three levels of compute power requirements:

1) Forward kinematics, peripheral control, basic data gathering: The Teensy and OpenCM 9.04 are great! The arduinos can even do it, although you can feel the limitations.

2) Real image/audio input, basic recognition (speech or image,) path planning and real-time SLAM: The Raspberry Pi 3 is certainly enough; direct camera input and GPU helps.

3) High-level AI, unassisted object recognition, real-time 3D point cloud derivation, various convolutional network applications: You need ALL THE POWAR!!! Jetson gives you a good GPU with some CPU to drive it. A single Intel CPU is not enough, no matter whether it's Celeron, Pentium, i7, or Xeon -- the GPU will run rings around it. However, even the bigger Jetsons are maybe not enough for the high-level AI-type work that you'd REALLY want to do in this area.

This means that the Intel CPUs live in a niche that isn't really that useful. I started out beilieving that it would be the right trade-off (several years ago) with mini-ITX and NUC form factor Intel-based computers, but they weigh too much, draw too much power, and under-deliver on the high-end modern AI-level computation.

KurtEck
12-23-2016, 07:24 PM
Thanks Jwatte,

I totally agree with 1) especially with Teensy and the like.

But for 2) I think there are many valid options For example sitting on my table:
6805

But choosing between boards can be interesting. Example in the above picture are 4 boards.

The bottom left is the RPI3.

The one to the right of it is the Odroid XU3-lite: would have put in the picture the XU4 instead (similar power to XU3), but with form factor including IO pins of the other three boards.

The one above the RPI3 is the Odroid C2:

And the one at the top right of it is the current up board.

All 4 boards have the same form factor, 40 pin connector, heat sink (or fan)... So for me not deciding factor. The Up squared however will be a bit bigger. The narrow side expanding make it more or less squared.

All 4 bourds want +5v power coming in. The RPI3 wants maybe 2.5amps, C2 similar, Up/XU4 maybe 3-4, again depending on what you plug into them.

I have not played enough yet with some of the newer boards. But I know from earlier boards like RPI2 and Odroid, that most/all of tue USB IO went through one channel on the processor and there was issues with IO throughput. With UP all of the USB connections have independent channels to processor... So if you do things like hook up primesense or other camera, plus USB based Servo driver, there were issues on getting higher level of frames or with HROS1 there would be driver pauses...

The main thing I was/am looking forward to, is if you are doing things like ROS where the primary development was on intel processors, you can simply install the main supported released. The ARM versions I tried at times had difficulties, like not all of the packages existed, some of them fault...

So I hoping it should just make life a little easier for things like that. But as I mentioned there are many valid options?

Anyway hopefully it will be fun!

jwatte
12-23-2016, 09:18 PM
Oh, I'm sure you can build a fine robot with any of those boards!

My point is more that you can build THE SAME fine robot with any of those boards. None of them give you enough oomph to totally upgrade what you're doing in an algorithmic way.
Another way to put that same tier: Pick the board you like the most and that has the most software support for your use case, because while they each benchmark slightly differently, the end result is going to be in the same ballpark!

Another illustration: When your real-time point cloud reconstruction latency goes from 8 seconds to 4 seconds, it's a 100% speed upgrade! And it's still not useful for real-time navigation. Hence, why the totally different category 3 is needed.

KurtEck
12-24-2016, 09:16 AM
Thanks again,

Sorry, I may not have been very clear in the last in the previous postings. I totally agree with you that none of these boards will take you up to your category 3. Which is again why I choose the Celeron version of UP2 as I think it will get me solidly into the higher end of your category 2 boards.

In the previous post, I was simply trying to show how there are now several options out there that have different architectures, that have roughly the same footprint and power requirements of the RPI... It was in regards to your statement about the earlier boards you tried like the NUC and ITX boards taking up too much room and power... I totally agree!

When Kevin first started his ROS robot, I also purchased a NUC, but never tried it on the PhantomX, as it was heavy/bulky and needed some external power up converter to get up to something like 17 or 21v... But as I mentioned after trying ROS on some of the different ARM based boards, thought it would be nice to be able to try out ROS again on an Intel 64 bit processor, where you hopefully can use the standard ROS repositories and hopefully be able to run all of the code on the main processor... Also hoping that having better USB hardware on these boards will allow us to get the full rated frame counts of the Primesense or equivalent camears and maybe resolve some of the USB latency issues we were seeing on RPI2s and the like.

I also totally agree, that you can build a fine robot with most any of these boards. Likewise I totally agree with you should choose the board that has the best support for what it is you want to do!

Merry Christmas!

jwatte
12-24-2016, 01:53 PM
ROS being better supported on X64 is a great point, btw! While the embedded world is moving to ARM, the move doesn't feel like it's all complete yet :-)
Happy Christmas to you, too!
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KurtEck
06-01-2017, 10:16 AM
Thought I would give an update here...

The first batch of Kickstarter UP2 boards have shipped. They made a few changes to the board during the beta cycle, and we had a choice to have our kickstart fulfillment with one of the beta boards, or wait a month and get one of the updated boards. Also as part of the kickstarter stretch goals they are including a case, which was not ready yet... So again you could choose to wait until these were done or get a coupon to their store for the value of it... I decided to wait as the shipping cost would have been > then the coupon...
So I believe mine is scheduled to ship in July...

Some other updates: You can now order some of the UP boards from mouser: http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntk=P_MarCom&Ntt=167583189 Which should reduce the shipping costs :D

Also today they announced a new kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/802007522/up-core-the-smallest-quadcore-x86-single-board-com

Which is for a really small Quad core Intel Adam processor... For the heck of it may support them here again!

KurtEck
07-20-2017, 09:32 AM
I thought I would mention, I did a big OOPS with my UP board.

I had my Teensy 3.6 HAT plugged into the UP board with the Pololu DC to DC converter, where I plug in a 12v wall wart (or lipo battery), which powers both boards... Well :o I plugged the 12v 10amp wall wart into the wrong connector, i.e. into the +5v connector of the Up board and heard a POP and smelled the smell you don't want!

So at least part of the board is toast (literally). I pulled off the heat sink and did not notice anything obvious. There are no schematics, so not sure if easy fix or not... I was told there is some power protection built in, so I may see if I can power around it and see if it will at least boot. Probably not worth paying to ship it back to Europe to see if it can be fixed and then if so ship it back...

And luckily their customer service people took pity and made me a deal, so will have a new one shipped to me soon...

But next time I will do, what I meant to do and tape over the power plug when I have the shield installed! :genmad:

jwatte
07-20-2017, 10:55 AM
I plugged the 12v 10amp wall wart into the wrong connector

Hate it when that happens! And I know exatly the smell you're talking about :sad:

My favorite power protection is a PTC resettable fuse followed by a high-power TVS followed by a MOSFET or Shottky diode.
If you plug it in wrong, the Shottky or MOSFET will protect against reverse polarity. And, the TVS will forward conduct, shorting the power, which will make the TVS resettable fuse trip.
If you plug it in right, but with too high voltage, the TVS will reverse conduct, and again, the TVS will likely trip (depending on how much current/over-voltage you use.)

The weaknesses of this design are:
1) The PTC resettable fuse has some trip time (often measured in seconds)
2) The TVS will conduct high-level current ("short") until the PTC trips, so it needs to be high-power (5kW) which means it needs to be big.
3) The PTC has some resistance, so will drop some power. If you use a Shottky, it will also have some resistance and drop some power (often up to half a Volt.)
4) If you use a MOSFET, you don't get the diode drop, but then have to worry about Vgs and avalanche (overvolting.) The TVS generally will help keep this in check, but see above.

So, all in all, the main problem is bulk and some power cost, to protect against a human error that "shouldn't" happen, and hook-ups only happen once, so the amortized benefit is low.

Anyway, good PR for the UP people to help you out; let's hear how it works when you get the new one :-)

KurtEck
07-20-2017, 11:29 AM
Again I don't have schematic, but was told they do have at least a poly-fuse and then voltage regulator...

I did try applying 5v to RPI like header pins and the 3.3v pins show correctly so some of it is still working. But not sure what else.
Does not appear to boot up to the WIFI... Not sure I wish to plug it into HDMI to see if anything shows up... But may with monitor I don't care if I fry...

KurtEck
07-20-2017, 01:29 PM
... I did try with monitor that I don't care about and nothing (as I suspected would happen).

It was sort of interesting yesterday, that when I made the order for the replacement plus a few extras.

When I completed the order, at the end of my order it took me to a page showing what turned out to be a test for a flash sale, which if it was real I would probably have ordered...

Realsense R200 with UP board, cable and power supply for $120)... So I contacted them...

Turned out it was just a test and not a real product code or I would have been able to add it to order... Note they do sell the higher end Realsense camera: http://up-shop.org/home/117-up-zr300-realsense-camera-robotic-developement-kit.html

In one of my replies to them, I mentioned that I thought it would be a nice product as currently the Turtlebot-3 waffle shows this camera with Intel Joule, which we know is in the process of being discontinued.

I received a response from them of: Very soon you will hear some update about UP and Turtlebot3. :-)

And later this morning they send out email to their list announcing a Summer Flash sale starting at midnight tonight (not sure whose midnight). http://up-shop.org/

So who knows what they will have up there.

jwatte
07-20-2017, 01:49 PM
Aluminum chassis + up2 might make for a good home theater PC. Or perhaps a 3D printer runner. (I have a little AMD-based Z-box from many years ago that initially went on the first Onyx walker doing that duty right now. It's very slow.)
Then again, at $200-$300, there are NUCs with similar capability and price, available from Amazon ... like http://amzn.to/2tjOIKv
You'd need to use USB for the Teensy, though; no RPi header.

KurtEck
09-09-2017, 05:37 PM
My UP2 board arrived. First thing that hit me, is how much more bulky this board is versus the first UP board.
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There is an RPI3 sitting behind the UP2.

They grew the board in one direction, but the but difference is the size of the Heatsink below the board. It also came with a case, which I had it in, but yesterday I received a Wifi/BT board, like you use in a portable which I installed. Not sure yet about Ant. I purchased a couple of external ones to plug in, but they are rather bulky.

Now back to playing

LloydF
05-12-2018, 08:31 AM
Hum, I got my new UP Board today with the robot development kit from Intel. I got a account with Intel and downloaded there latest ISO and was able to boot up to Ubuntu 14.04 and then Upgraded to Ubuntu 16.04. It comes with the intel RealSense Camera R200, so I shall move it into a turtlebot3 waffle and see what happens, this should be fun:wink:.
I used the EDIMAX AC, it use's the rtl8812au chip so drivers are easy to find for Ubuntu.
(Note this board has the same form factor as the rpi3, with a heat sink and fan, sorta like the xu4 in pi size,
But it is the USB3.0 what has me happy, and the Graphics run 4k nicely)
What's in the Box:


Intel RealSense R200 Camera
AAEON UP Board

Intel Atomâ„¢ Processor x5-Z8350
Intel HD Graphics
4GB DDR3L-1600 memory
32GB eMMC storage


USB 3.0 Type A Female to Micro USB Type B Male Adapter
USB 3.0 Type B Male to Micro USB Type B Male Cable
5V 4A Power supply
(note. works as a Intel joule replacement. tested on tb3 waffle by me:o)

KurtEck
05-17-2018, 07:50 AM
Yes - I have a couple of the Up boards sitting here. One that came with the same kit you purchased and another that I purchased direct from Europe (to replace the one that I accidentally plugged 12v into the 5v connector (I have a RPI hat with Teensy on it and DC to DC converter, which takes 12v and I accidentally plugged the wall wart into the wrong connector.... (magic smoke!)

What did not come with the kit was a wifi adapter. So I purchased two of them to try out. So far the slower one has been more stable for me. I asked for suggestions up on UP forum (https://forum.up-community.org/discussion/2983/current-suggestions-for-wifi-adapaters-for-up-boards#latest) but did not get any responses. The two I purchased were based on other comments I saw up on their forums.

I have debated with myself which of the UP boards to put on the waffle (the one from the kit with the semi noisy fan) or the one with a just a heat sink. ... Currently I have the one with fan on it. I really do need to finish putting it all back in one piece!