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Thread: USB2AX v3.1

  1. #21

    Re: USB2AX v3.1

    The advantage of CM-5/CM-510 powering using the Robotis battery is that it's autonomous, no power cable needed.

  2. #22

    Re: USB2AX v3.1

    The advantage of CM-5/CM-510 powering using the Robotis battery is that it's autonomous, no power cable needed.
    You can power your servos with any suitable battery/voltage by just snipping a servo cable in half and providing ground/power on the right two wires. While it may be an advantage that you can "plug and play" with the Robotis controllers/batteries, that advantage might save you no more than 15 minutes compared to the alternative.

  3. #23
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    Re: USB2AX v3.1

    I agree with jwatte. With a usb2ax or a usb2dynamixel all you really need is a 3 cell battery... maybe a cap just to be safe and an extra servo wire. The CM-5/CM-510 is just extra weight in this situation. The Trossen hub keeps it simple though. If my battery is charging I can plug in my power supply with the barrel connecter and I'm back to testing...

  4. #24

    Re: USB2AX v3.1

    I prefer to start with the elements I have (the standard kit) and then, as the robot grow, start adding new components (soft and hard) as needed for the next goal. Which batteries plus regulator (if needed) will you recommend? Anyone which could also feed Kinect?

  5. #25
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    Re: USB2AX v3.1

    I'm using a PrimeSense instead of a Kinect which doesn't need to be separately powered. Though my raspberry pi and USB hub is powered off of a UBEC from Castle creations. It has a 10 amp limit which is more than enough. The battery pack is a 6600 mah 3 cell lipo which weighs in at 460 grams.

  6. #26

    Re: USB2AX v3.1

    I'd recommend a 3S LiPo battery, the more capacity the better, as long as you can carry they weight. Perhaps a 2500 mAh 11.1V LiPo would be good. The servos should not need regulators for this, assuming they are specified at 12V.

    If the Kinect needs regulated 12V, you'll need a step-up-down DC DC converter to get that out of the 12V, because fully charged, it's 12.6V, but fully discharged, it's 9.6V. (Actually, a step-up/boost converter might work; there's a little voltage drop through the converter, and 12.3V or so might be fine for the Kinect?)
    Maybe something like this: http://www.trossenrobotics.com/store...AnyVolt-3.aspx (should be quite rugged.)

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