3D printable models for the HR-OS1

[drachels]

This looks nice and clean. Have you tired these little speakers yet? I played with one last night and it had a pretty decent volume when you put your hand or an object behind it. I was thinking I could get away with using two to give a little extra volume. So far I've only tested with this 5V amplifier found on amazon but I'm definitely satisfied for $6. We might start a new thread for robot audio when you start testing your TTS module?



Still doing a little dance for this! I can't wait to give it a try.

The simplified camera model is a good idea to get a good fit.. One thing that helped me was to also draw the field of view coming from the center of the lens. Keep in mind I've only measured mine but I observed a 45 degree horizontal angle and a 32 degree vertical angle from the supplied camera. Also I noticed my camera looks a little to the right as the components were not in perfect alignment from manufacturing.

Yes, I tried the speakers out last night. At the full volume of the TTS module, one speaker in the open was fairly decent. Two was much better. I have provision in the head to mount up to four. We'll see. A LOT depends on which voice is selected for the output.

Your angles on the camera are what I think I found somewhere last week. I hate to say I didn't think to do the field of view trick. Just went with what I got from the first head I'm not using, plus I made the eye holes 2mm larger in diameter. I will probably go back and add it into the working files.

I am 45 minutes into a trial print of the new head design and still on the second layer...and it is a print I'm fairly certain will fail near the end. I'm using my Printrbot Simple Metal that I just upgraded to a heated bed. I was working on getting the Z stop dialed in, got in a rush, and forgot to switch to a profile with support, so I think the top of the head is going to cave in. I am letting it go as it is an old spool of gray filament, and it will a least give me a base plate that I can use to verify clearances, hole positions, and hole sizes before I use my new white filament.

[sonel]

We might start a new thread for robot audio when you start testing your TTS module?

I think this is a good idea. I'm also working on audio, using instead the 2x2.5W amplifier from Adafruit. It is very small has seems to have very good efficiency.

The speakers I found on eBay are very thin and 40mm diameter:


They are rated 3W at 4ohm, which I'm sure is a gross exaggeration. But I will test them soon. I plan to place them in the front cover just in front of the shoulder servos, with the amplifier between them.

The issue is that powering the amplifier from the regulator that is on the ArbotixPro might not be a very good idea. That is rated at 1.5A and the Pi takes about 700mA. In my design I also have a 2.2'' HAT TFT display in the front, and with a camera on the USB things get easily to about 1A. I'm afraid that powering the amplifier from the same source will not be a good idea.

So I'm started preparing a "power" board that includes 2 Murata DC/DC regulators (I'm having a second one because in the end I want to run another RPi in the head dedicated to stereo vision - that is why I'm interested in the Jimmy head from darachels: it' the most suitable head that might include a Pi and two cameras). Since I'm there I want to include also two XT male connectors for the battery and 2 Schotky diodes to allow hot swap of the batteries.

For the time being I've changed the lower part of the body as follows to make space for the new board:


I have removed the 2 standoffs at the back and placed instead a U shaped support that has 4 M2 heat inserts - these will hold the board. I've also modified the plate P4 by adding 2mm standoffs for the servos so that now the distance between the P4 and P5 plate is 34mm, enough to mount the battery upright, thus leaving me more space at the back for the power board.

As I progress with this I will post it on the git hub.

Alex.

[drachels]

Hi Alex,
I did a trial print of the head yesterday and I'm printing the back cover right now. r3n33 looked at a copy of the files for me yesterday, and between us we found the need for three modifications I'm working on today. Should have the files ready later today.

As far as sticking a Pi in the head, I think it might be doable as it looks like there is just enough room above the tilt servo, but there is a possibility the cam arms would impinge into the required space. I won't know for sure for a while. Got four Pi's in the house and not a single one is outside of a case. I'll have to try removing one to see.

There is definitely room for the supplied Edison and it's breakout board to go in the head. In fact, more than one. It might be feasible to run the robot off an Edison in the head with two cameras running off the Pi mounted in the torso.

I'll try to post the updated files this afternoon,

AL

[drachels]

Well, I think he looks pretty good, even though this is the trial print from yesterday with today's back cover.


The "ear" slots have been changed to a pattern of circles because these wound up having trouble printing. The ones on the other side of the head do not look as good as this side. If anyone prints the files, I had to rotate the back piece forward 90 degrees as the normal upright way was not sticking to the support. Of course that makes the lines of the print pattern match, but I think I can live with that....for now. I'll try printing upright again, but if I have problems I'll probably reverse the edge lips later so that I can make it print it upright without problems.

@Alex, as you can see lying there beside him in the first picture, I took one of my Pi's out of a case and tried it out in the head. If I lay my speakers down and I'm very careful about how I do it, I can squeeze a Pi into the head. I put it in upside down with the USB connectors over by the ear holes. You can have them to the rear, but the tilt cam might hit the them. An interior redesign to have the servo standing up, (would need longer tilt arms,) would make it to where you had room to stand the Pi on it's edge right behind the cameras. Would probably also want to make the whole top of the head removable, in that case. Actually, that's the way I initially thought about trying to make this thing, but I got side tracked and went with the present design version.

There is ALMOST enough room for a computer on a stick in there. If I opened up a slot in the back cover, one would fit. I haven't tried to see yet if I can replace Windows 10 with Linux on one yet, though. It would be nice to have a quad core 1.33 GHz processor in there. I don't have one, but I bet an Odroid-XU4 would also fit. At 2GHz and an Octa core, that would probably be able to run everything. Hmm, just place it where the normal Pi goes.

Anyway, here are the files if anyone wants to try them out.
JimmyV5CoverPart.zipJimmyV5MainPart.zip

[drachels]

I have been looking for some time for a Jimmy head model. I am interested in the model and happy to help with the updates. What 3D modelling program are you using?

I am not a big fan of the current design of the head. It's too complicated and as you pointed out it occupies too much space. Also, as some others have noticed the tilt range is very limited. I'm thinking about changing the design by moving the pan servo in the chest between the two shoulder servos, build a long "neck" and put on top the tilt servo that can be fixed to the head shell.

I've seen you also have the Jimmy hands printed. I think they look nicer.

Alex.

I forgot to mention this when I saw your post the other day, but I do have a .stl file for the P1 plate that lets you place the pan servo in the chest between the shoulder servos. It will also let you keep the servo on top, but flipped over so the servo horn is on the top side of the servo instead of on the bottom, which is standard. It is made by just adding a cutout and screw holes from the P1 plate in the master file.

HROS1ModifiedP1Plate.zip

[r3n33]

Thanks AL!!

The JimmyV5 model looks great! I tried to print one last night and while it came out OK the supports that Slic3r generated were pretty excessive in the middle. It was late last night so I tried to start the print anyway. Long story short I ended up breaking (er ripping apart) the print while trying to remove them and then hot gluing the print back together. Hah. I'll see what I can do to adjust my support settings or create a flat ceiling in the model so it can bridge the top and avoid the need for the support pillar in the middle. The very worst case is it's about $62 at shapeways for a really nice copy

[KurtEck]

Looks like I may need to order some parts (Head and Hands)... Probably to add Neopixels to all

[drachels]

Thanks AL!!

The JimmyV5 model looks great! I tried to print one last night and while it came out OK the supports that Slic3r generated were pretty excessive in the middle. It was late last night so I tried to start the print anyway. Long story short I ended up breaking (er ripping apart) the print while trying to remove them and then hot gluing the print back together. Hah. I'll see what I can do to adjust my support settings or create a flat ceiling in the model so it can bridge the top and avoid the need for the support pillar in the middle. The very worst case is it's about $62 at shapeways for a really nice copy

I haven't tried a Slic3r generated print. So far the two I've done were with the latest Cura and whatever it has as internal slicer and the support was parallel lines which were very easy to get out pretty cleanly. In some spots I had to take out just one vertical line at a time around the servo and camera mounts. The only problem I had with cracking/breaking is that this thing sticks to my heated bed so well, that I cracked it getting it loose. Gotta make me a wedge to slide between the print and the tape to see it that makes it easier. Maybe I can find a real thin and flexible putty knife. As far as the price, wow, didn't realize we are saving that much!

[drachels]

Looks like I may need to order some parts (Head and Hands)... Probably to add Neopixels to all

The other night, when our dog kept me from going to sleep for an hour or two, I got to thinking about r3n33's lighted hands, when I suddenly realized that a pair of Adafruit NeoPixel rings right behind the eyes/cameras, would allow for some pretty neat lighting effects.

[LloydF]

My chair is almost finished printing, Thank you. Every bot needs his spot. (Sheldon Cooper quote i think)