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Thread: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

  1. Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    All,

    I have finished the head updates. Sorry for taking so long - but there are some long prints...

    I have posted the parts in my github. I hope by tonight I will also include an assembly guide with pictures.

    Alex.

  2. Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    Quote Originally Posted by r3n33 View Post
    Actually I have about 75% of a write up completed for creating your own FSR feet that I hope to finish soon. What I used was a Trinket Pro 5V and wrote a Dynamixel device driver. The full register table from Robotis was implemented as well as some other improvements.
    Nice, is the trinket small enough to fit in the feet (between the F5 wide bracket and the edge of the foot)?

    Also I'm curious if you're using any buffering between the UART and the Dynamixel bus - the original Arbotix-M was simply joining TX and RX from UART and straight to D on Dynamixel bus. All Bioloid controllers (at least the ones that have schematics published) use a combination of LS125/LS126 tri-state buffers controlled through one I/O pin. The Arbotix-PRO is also similar.

    Alex.

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    Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    Buffering is safer since the TTL dynamixel buss is supposed to be pulled up to 5V by servos and/or controllers, but with 5V AVR microcontrollers like those used in the arbotix-m and CM-5/510/700, it is not actually necessary since the AVR permits quick enabling/disabling of TX or RX functionality of UART pins. On 3.3V microcontrollers like most ARM variants (as used in CM-530, CM-900, CM-730/Arbotix-Pro, Arduino Due), it is absolutely necessary to add buffering unless the pins are known to be 5V logic compatible and permit quick enable/disable of TX and RX functions.
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  4. #54

    Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    Note: after seeing all the stuff r3n33 has been doing with the Adafruit pro trinket (5v), especially with the color LED, I have started to play along The Trinket Pros are Atmega 328 processors like the Arduino Uno and the like, but unlike those boards they don't have a built in USB to serial adapter like an FTDI chip... However it does have a funky USB connector on board, which is connected up to two IO pins, that when you reboot the processor it does startup a boot loader which allows you to program the board using USB...

    So the same tricks used for the Arbotix-M work here as well. I have a breadboard setup right now. Where I have the pro trinket hooked up to the AX Buss, with RX and TX connected to each other, I have an inline resistor to give the processor a little protection. I then have an Adafruit Neopixel hooked up (I thought r3n33 was using these, but...). So I updated her sketch (and library) and I believe have code that can emulate what she has in her hands, but then I swapped in an Adafruit Jewel (7 Neopixels) and updated my version of the code, such that the the center pixel works like before, but the AX code also monitors other messages on the AX buss and currently I have it monitoring SYNC-Write messages, and have it setup for my PhantomX hexapod where one pixel is associated with each leg. So if the leg is moving, it sets a color depending on what is moving... (Code also works with Teensy 3.2s...)

    But again I don't want to hijack this thread! Will post more later when we are happy with the code (and likewise circuit boards... ) But again this all deserves a separate thread.

  5. #55

    Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I got the Jimmy Head Finished and it is really nice, Thank you so much.

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    Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    Quote Originally Posted by LloydF View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I got the Jimmy Head Finished and it is really nice, Thank you so much.
    Hi LloydF,
    That shade of black looks pretty good. I still have to print out a front and back cover. I also need to reprint the calf armor. I printed two before I remembered to eliminate the two holes that are incorrectly spaced. For anyone interested, I'll try to post the altered files in a day or two. I guess I need to start adding all these HR-OS1 files on my github account so people can get to them sooner/easier.

    @r3n33 and LloydF - Did you have any kind of problems with the head? Any suggestions for improvement? Any problems getting the rear cover to fit and fasten in place?

    I'm about done with an improved version that has a bigger rear hatch to make it easier to access whatever a person sticks inside the head. I'm mostly finishing up on hole placements for speaker mounts and standoffs for mounting a Pi or Odroid0XU4. It will look sort of like stylized hair if printed, or painted, in another color.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It is designed to use a modified P1 plate with the pan servo between the shoulder servos and the tilt servo as the neck, leaving the interior of the head available for cameras, speakers, amp, Pi, Odroid, or anything else you desire to stick in there. I have a prototype printed for making final design changes of where to locate holes, fasteners, standoffs, etc.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    As you can see, I currently have a camera, four speakers, and an Odroid-XU4 in my testing head. For anyone interested, yes those two speakers right behind the camera and other eye, do make a difference in the perceived audio volume. I am also experimenting with alternate ways of mounting a Pi or Odroid. The Odroid also presents another problem. Without it being in a case, the eMMC storage chip comes loose pretty easily, so I have to come up with some sort of brace or clip to hold it securely in place.

  7. #57

    Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    I'm thinking smaller is better here, as I seem to remember this head design has issues.
    "Jimmy, while cute, has an impractically large head. We had a lot of problems with the head cracking like an egg when it would take a hard fall. Furthermore, we don't own the IP to open source the Jimmy 3d models, and the owner of those chose not to release them."

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    Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    I think smaller is better too. I have been planning to go back to the original, smaller version that I started with as with full body armor, hopefully the chest or back plate should hit the ground first in a fall, instead of the rim of the head. The current the larger version sticks out further, especially to the front, and will hit before the chest and thus be subject to cracking more so than the smaller version.

    I am also planning to make it so that the top curved portion prints in one piece and the bottom, more or less like a small saucer plate, will print separately. Pretty much the same way Alex has done. The two parts of the current larger version I've been experimenting with just do not match up well enough due to print "squish" expansion and I don't feel like trying to figure out how much smaller to print the back cover so that it fits better.

    My main goal is just to have something with enough room to securely mount other controllers for a little experimenting. I would rather not try stuffing experiments into the little space between the shoulder servos. Besides, the things I am trying out right now just won't fit in there. I've even thought of expanding r3n33's Chappie head so I could hang an Odroid or Pi right behind the the tilt servo, and then add a display on the front like the "real" one from the movie has.

    Since I am "retired" and have plenty of spare time, I'll probably try that, plus "Elvis" might even enter the building.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    Quote Originally Posted by sonel View Post
    All,

    I have finished the head updates. Sorry for taking so long - but there are some long prints...

    I have posted the parts in my github. I hope by tonight I will also include an assembly guide with pictures.

    Alex.
    Very nice stuff! I checked out your assembly guide as well. Thanks for sharing all the hard work!

    Quote Originally Posted by sonel View Post
    Nice, is the trinket small enough to fit in the feet (between the F5 wide bracket and the edge of the foot)?

    Also I'm curious if you're using any buffering between the UART and the Dynamixel bus - the original Arbotix-M was simply joining TX and RX from UART and straight to D on Dynamixel bus. All Bioloid controllers (at least the ones that have schematics published) use a combination of LS125/LS126 tri-state buffers controlled through one I/O pin. The Arbotix-PRO is also similar.

    Alex.
    Yes the Trinket fits great between the F5 bracket and the edge of the F12 foot. I started a thread so we could discuss FSR feet as progress is made. http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/sh...for-the-HR-OS1 To answer your question though, TX and RX are tied together. We are very much experimenting at this point. I've had good success using a diode between TX and RX which simplifies the firmware by not needing to switch the pin modes on the MCU. And just as well without the diode by setting registers to enable/disable comms.


    Quote Originally Posted by LloydF View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Jimmy#2.jpg 
Views:	235 
Size:	107.5 KB 
ID:	6277Click image for larger version. 

Name:	jimmyhead.jpg 
Views:	206 
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ID:	6278
    I got the Jimmy Head Finished and it is really nice, Thank you so much.
    Your robot looks great!!

    Quote Originally Posted by drachels View Post
    @r3n33 and LloydF - Did you have any kind of problems with the head? Any suggestions for improvement? Any problems getting the rear cover to fit and fasten in place?

    I'm about done with an improved version that has a bigger rear hatch to make it easier to access whatever a person sticks inside the head. I'm mostly finishing up on hole placements for speaker mounts and standoffs for mounting a Pi or Odroid0XU4. It will look sort of like stylized hair if printed, or painted, in another color.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Resized2015-11-12 09.05.15.jpg 
Views:	185 
Size:	67.7 KB 
ID:	6279
    It is designed to use a modified P1 plate with the pan servo between the shoulder servos and the tilt servo as the neck, leaving the interior of the head available for cameras, speakers, amp, Pi, Odroid, or anything else you desire to stick in there. I have a prototype printed for making final design changes of where to locate holes, fasteners, standoffs, etc.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Resized2015-11-12 09.31.28.jpg 
Views:	222 
Size:	213.2 KB 
ID:	6280
    As you can see, I currently have a camera, four speakers, and an Odroid-XU4 in my testing head. For anyone interested, yes those two speakers right behind the camera and other eye, do make a difference in the perceived audio volume. I am also experimenting with alternate ways of mounting a Pi or Odroid. The Odroid also presents another problem. Without it being in a case, the eMMC storage chip comes loose pretty easily, so I have to come up with some sort of brace or clip to hold it securely in place.
    To be honest I still have your V5 jimmy style head installed but haven't printed the back half. I never did put the time in to improve my support structuring and have been lurking about watching a few of you making awesome progress so I figured I'd hold off and tend to some of my other projects.

    I like your improvements to the V5 design and it's impressive how much you can fit inside the head.
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  10. #60

    Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    I used some long self taping servo screws I had laying around to attach the rear hatch. I used shapeways as I had the same issues as
    r3n33 had with my 3d printer but shapeways apparently does not have.
    Last edited by LloydF; 11-16-2015 at 06:48 PM.

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