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Thread: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

  1. Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    Did anyone notice the following problem with the Onion armor design?
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    For the front torso, I understand that the four screw holes can be used to attach your logo or something, is it correct?

    But I don't understand the other four screw holes, what these for? The orientation doesn't match with the robot design, so can't attach to the robot with these screw holes. In this way, the armor is only attached to the robot by the two screws on the shoulder.

  2. #62

    Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    Well the two on top and the four in the middle of the chest are to screw the chest down to the frame but the extra four
    on the outside of the chest are used the same way, I just ran out of L bracket's (note this is were you use them little L brackets to
    fasten the chest to the Frame plates 2 and 3, it only goes one way so.)
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    Last edited by LloydF; 12-30-2015 at 09:30 AM.

  3. #63
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    Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    Sorry guys, that I did not attach these sooner, but I've had some dental surgery recently and have not been feeling like doing much of anything. These two files have had the mounting holes removed that do not line up with the bracket holes correctly. I felt that eight screws were plenty for attachment, so I just removed them, instead of moving them.
    HROS1ThighArmorRemovedExtraHoles.zip
    HROS1CalfArmorRemovedExtraHoles.zip

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    Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    Quote Originally Posted by drachels View Post
    Sorry guys, that I did not attach these sooner, but I've had some dental surgery recently and have not been feeling like doing much of anything.
    That's never fun. First or second year at uni, I had my entire upper jaw cut away from my skull, slightly reshaped at the back (removed wedges of bone from both sides), moved forward slightly, then reattached with 17 screws and 4 plates all so that the teeth in my upper jaw would actually line up with the teeth in my lower jaw. Thankfully had a great surgeon with no complications and no painkillers required, but haven't worn my retainer very often the last several years because there is not much need. My sister also had a great surgeon for her upper jaw surgery, but my brother was not so lucky. He had a not very good surgeon who cut and reshaped both upper (cut into three pieces) and lower jaws, accidentally severed nerves in his chin during chin shortening/reshaping (leaving him unable to feel lips; later fixed by another great surgeon so no longer requiring a mirror to eat), and added unwanted cheek implants. Now his second round of braces (invisalign) with some rubber bands - after religiously wearing his retainer from the first round - has left him with a tooth that will probably need to be pulled because the root appears to be in the process of being re-absorbed.

    Robots are so lucky. Anything breaks, just buy/build/install a replacement.
    Last edited by tician; 11-20-2015 at 05:06 PM.
    Please pardon the pedantry... and the profanity... and the convoluted speech pattern...
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  5. #65

    Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    Started printing speaker frames. I noticed how terribly powerful sound is with a robot and also how terribly cpu intensive.
    With this Head design a MP3 Trigger can be really effective and fit in the head just fine. I'll post some pictures as I only have a
    robertsonics trigger at the moment. (and I think there are much smaller one's out there)

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    Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    The robertsonics trigger sounds like it would be the perfect item to use in something like an R2D2 type robot, but with 256 tracks available, you could still cover an awful lot of possible pre-programmed voice responses.

    I am making VERY slow progress with my own sound idea. I am trying to use something like Jasper or voicecommand. The idea is that since they can can be set to silent mode with just text replies, I can pipe the text to my Emic2 text-to-speech module and let it handle the audio output processing. My biggest problem with the two voice recognition programs is getting them to run reliably for more than a few minutes. For instance, a few minutes ago I had voicecommand working, stopped to look at the various commands listed in the manual, and haven't been able to get it to record or speak since then.

    Now I understand why so many guys like to build robots that use smart phones and tablets to do all the voice/audio stuff.

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    Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    JimmyHeadV8.zip
    @r3n33, here is the current version 8 of the Jimmy head. After the root canal 2 days ago, I have been feeling too poorly to try and convert the extra board mounting holes to a universal mount like I was hoping to do. So, this one will handle a Pi2 or Odroid-XU4 orientated front to back, or left to right.

    The zip contains three files. One for the top of his head, one for the bottom, and one for pivot arms. I have tried to design this so that in a fall, he should land on the seam between the top and bottom part of the head. I have purposely made the pivot arms pretty thin, so that if something does break, it will be them first. This is an advantage as they only take a few minutes to print compared to about 3 hours for the bottom and 11 hours for the top, on my printers.

    I just realized that I forgot to include the file for the Radio Shack speakers. I'll add them in a couple of hours as I have to go pick up some medicine right now.

    Edit: Been feeling poorly so it took longer than I meant to, to add these speaker mounts for this head. JimmyHeadV8.zip
    Last edited by drachels; 12-12-2015 at 04:23 PM.

  8. #68

    Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    Hope you feel better!

    Question: I know that a few people are now using an XU4 on their HRSO1. I still have a C1 in mine as it has the same footprint as the RPI2, so fits without any mods.

    However I would like to move to using the XU4. I understand that you have it setup such that it can fit in the head, which probably would work fine, but I was wondering if anyone has adapted it to mount in the position that the RP2 or Edison, if so did you setup to print a new plate for the HROS1? Or did you mount it a different way?

    I may try laying out the board and print one and see if it works, but it would be nice to find out that someone has already done so and has a design file to share.

    Thanks

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    Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    Hi KurtEck,

    I'm still feeling miserable due to the shingles, flu, tetanus, diphtheria, and pertussis shots I got in the afternoon after the root canal.

    If totally switching to an Odroid, my first inclination would be to print a new P2 plate with the holes spaced for an Odroid-XU4 and mount it in place of the orignal. The only reason I am making room for one in the head is for trying out extra video and audio stuff without having to mess with my normal Pi2 and the code I have on it.

    If you want to use the existing P2 plate, I would just try adding a couple of new holes and mount it using only three screws. I would only use 3 of the Odroid holes as the width between them do not match the Pi2 and on the chest side of the plate I don't think there is enough room to drill two new holes, so one screw at the front and two at the back where there is plenty of room to add two holes.

    One of the unforeseen problems with using the Odroid-XU4 is that I will probably switch from using the eMMC storage to SDC storage even though it is noticeably slower. The reason is that it is so easy to bump and jar the eMMC loose from the bottom side of the board. I just did it again a few minutes ago. One time, I had to completely restore the operating system to the eMMC as it got trashed when it fell off. There is no provision for adding a retainer to the Odroid board itself, so I am going to see about adding one inside the head.

  10. #70

    Re: 3D printable models for the HR-OS1

    Sorry to hear that! Hopefully you are starting to feel better now.

    Thanks, I am thinking of doing a new P2 plate, but always wondered about instead mounting to p3 plate. But will probably stick with the main method, although different hole pattern.

    So far I have not had the emmc fall off, although I have not had it on the hominoid where it can fall. was wondering about two possibilities. The first is to mount it upside down, such that the emmc is on top. The 2nd is to maybe add a retainer as you mentioned to the plate, or a simple plate that goes between two of the mounting holes of the Xu4...

    Looks like time for some more disassembly.

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