3D printable models for the HR-OS1

[r3n33]

Thanks Zenta I'd definitely like to print an orange right-side antenna when I get a hold of the filament. I forgot to mention it here but the two big antenna are moveable and attach via M2.5 screws.. Up to 8mm in length or so. I think I used 2.5x5mm temporarily. Anyway, it will be nice and easy to swap for a colored part.

At home I've been using a Solidoodle 4 for almost two full years. It was fairly inexpensive at the time and right off the bat received a couple hundred dollars of upgrades ( LCD Interface, SD Printing, E3D hotend ). Since then it pretty much just works without any major problems. I've replaced a couple cheap cooling fans along the way and learned cheap filament produces crap prints. All in all it has been a very trusty lower-end machine. So 1-2 years ago, yes, I'd definitely recommend it. Now a days I'm guessing the selection, features, and prices have all changed.

[r3n33]

I don't know about anyone else but my battery is always trying to slide out and I've finally had enough. So I made this quickly printable and easily installable "battery catch". It is designed to attach to the two un-used M3 holes on the left side of the robot and prevent the battery from falling out. Typically my battery doesn't fall out the right side because the wiring and plug are routed through the center which keep it in place unless the bot leans left.



Download the STL and the Sketchup source here: HR-OS1 Battery Catch.zip

[r3n33]

I've been re-working the Chappie head model and now that it's quite a bit better you can make one too. Possibly the best feature is the ability to mount the supplied HR-OS1 camera inside and you have two options here: one with a 24 degree downward offset to allow the bot to see it's feet and play soccer and one with the camera pointed straight ahead like the original (beta) mounting calls for. Mounting holes were added to the top allowing the part to be securely attached to the F3 bracket on the head servo. The next thing I did was attempt to reduce the weight and I brought it down to 60 grams or about 70 with the antennas attached. This is about 22% less than the original design but still not light enough to work with my existing tune... awww darn. Regardless, if you are a Chappie fan this head is for you! I can't bring myself to take it off

Download the files here HR-OS1 Chappie Head with Camera.zip or on thingiverse.

[KurtEck]

Looks great!

Quick question: Suppose there still exists a few of us who don't have a 3d printer :lol:

Is there a service that you can simply up here that you can simply either send these files to and/or point them to this listing and have them print them?

Thanks
Kurt

[tician]

The recently quiet birdman cured my ignorance of the rather awesome 3D hubs (https://www.3dhubs.com/) and then there is the ever popular shapeways (http://www.shapeways.com/). Just upload the stl to either and get quotes for the print.

[drachels]

Hi r3n33,
I recently printed a Chappie head using your file. Thanks. I could send you an orange antenna, if you like, as I'm just three states East of you. I have been trying to learn to use 123D Design and have made some "Jimmy" like hands. If anyone prints them out, I don't think I would have them installed if I was playing around and experimenting with poses or anything else where I was expecting my robot to fall a lot. I printed mine with support and 15% infill.
LEFTHandV2.zip
RIGHTHandV2.zip

[r3n33]

I'm really happy you were able to print a Chappie head. Thanks for offering an orange antenna

Those are neat Jimmy style hands. Do you have any thoughts about making more jimmy like parts? I think that might be fun.

[drachels]

I've been working on a head today. About 5 false starts so far as I'm trying to make it so the back comes off but has a rim so it fits tightly into position. Slow going because I'm having to learn 123D Design at the same time and it is NOT very intuitive. I'm also working on a way that lets the head tilt a lot further than the stock setup. Got one right now that looks up 95 degrees and down 150 degrees. Don't know if it would get that much tilt with a head on the mount though.

Send me your address in a private email and the antenna is yours.

[LloydF]

Your "battery catch" is a most wonderful addition to my HROS1. You ROCK!

[drachels]

I finally got a printable version of a "Jimmy" type head. The bottom of the head replaces the top part of the two round pieces of the standard head tilt. In the included picture, the camera is mounted behind his right eye but has mounts so it could be placed behind the left. The picture on the computer monitor is from that camera. I need to play with the two mounting screws to eliminate a bit of the eye hole that is just visible where the red arrow is pointing.


If that were the only problem, I would just live with it.....but. It wasn't until I was finalizing the design that I imported the servo and tilt links into the project file to see how much of a hole I was going to need for the tilt linkage arms. I was hoping to get away with just a couple of holes in the bottom of the head. Since all the nuts, bolts, screws, etc. are exploded in the HRSO1 3D Models master file, I forgot to account for them and, as you can see in the second picture, I need to do a "little trimming" to use this head.


I am working on a new version as I think this one actually looks a little too small. I plan on increasing the diameter from 120mm to about 140mm, or whatever it takes to make the back cutout unnecessary. It will also allow me to try another type "latch" for the access hatch. With the bigger size, I also plan to include mounts for a couple of speakers. Radio shack has some that are just 29mm in diameter. I might even try using a couple of ancient computer chassis speakers I have lying around. At 57mm, they might give more sound. I might even see about scavenging speakers from old phones I have squirreled away somewhere.

A redesign will also let me add 3mm to the camera mounting posts. In this version, I had to add 3mm spacers so the right edge of the camera circuit board would fit and clear the back side of his cheek.

Since this version has "problems" I'm not going to bother posting the two .stl files. My wife has plans for me over the next couple of days, but I hope to have the new version ready by next weekend and will make the new files available. The real downside to this, is that because of all the support needed, these two pieces took 6:34 and 2:41 to print and a bigger version will just take longer.